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Discussion Starter #22
bump for members having issues. can this get stickied please. if needed I can give the tech bulletin to admin to see I aint made this up.
 

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Probably one of the most important how to guides.

One wonders if anyone has suggested this be a sticky or be added to the How To page???
 

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cityrover
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why is there a join just befor the heater matrix it looks like rubber just keeping 2 pipes together but it has a bridge and this makes bleeding hell and seems to have no good reason to be there unless you guy know
 

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A lot of people asking recently, so I copied this from a manual I have.




I can't add pictures because they may be copyrighted. The illustration 1 is the little "jiggle valve" on the inlet manifold that it's often referred by.

HTH someone

;)

'FAIR USE TERMS' include - EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. ADD DEM PICKS :D
 

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MG ZS 120
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Quick question on this please. By 'expansion tank neck' do they mean the filler neck? Won't that overfill it when the Max level is half way down the tank? Or are we hoping it will drop to below max level if/when the air shifts? Many thanks.
 

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mg_tf
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Surely better to start a new thread than to tag the question onto an at least 4 year old thread. Sorry, but I cannot find reference to ‘...by expansion tank neck..’
 

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From the Rover technical bulletin quoted in the OP -
10. With expansion tank cap off, start and run engine at 1500 – 2500 rev/min. Fill expansion tank as necessary to maintain coolant level just below expansion tank neck. When coolant starts to rise up expansion tank neck, due to heat expansion, fit expansion tank cap.
If that means the very top of the expansion tank won't that leave it overfilled?
My question is on-topic so I thought I would try adding to the defintive thread on this subject. Thanks
 

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When finishing the fill procedure, I always fill it to just above the max mark on the expansion tank, noting it will drop a bit as the last bit of air bleeds out in use. Then I check regularly for a few days, topping up or syringing out excess once the level settles. Note: it looks fuller when hot, as the liquid expands. I try to set the level when cold.
 

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mg_tf
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Having just changed the belt and water pump on a K engine (ZT 120) getting the air out has been a pain. Filled strictly as per the Rover guide in this thread. It left the heater 'gurgling' as there was clearly air in the matrix. Ran the car for a short trip, then bled and topped up, now 4 times in total. Seems finally to be sorted. Heater gauge sat at the right level all through the process, but knowing you have air in the system on one of these cars keeps you worrying.
 
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