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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, my GFs car has has a Head Gasket replacement (uprated) yet It still seems to get through coolant, the last time I filled up and bled the system I noticed the bleed bolt on the rhs of the radiator doesn't tighten particularly tight, could this be the source of the coolant loss?? It goes to slightly above finger tight and then gets loose again, I have tightened it as tight as it will go, is there something I can apply to it remedy this or am I just barking up the wrong tree.... In which case anybody got any other ideas...

Thanks
Pete
 

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The bleed point could well be the problem, also inspect the under floor coolant pipes and the radiator. The water pump maybe the problem and don’t discount the coolant bottle cap being faulty.
 

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i had mine done about 3 months ago and have to top up but it is getting better. My MG mechanic friend who did the work said that when the gaskets are done you do lose quite a bit in the system until it settles down.
 

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If I remember right the thread dimension on the radiator bleed plug is 12x1.5mm. I made a successful bodge once by replacing it with a spark plug! Made of steel and with a long threaded portioni it worked perfectly.
 

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scuzza said:
i had mine done about 3 months ago and have to top up but it is getting better. My MG mechanic friend who did the work said that when the gaskets are done you do lose quite a bit in the system until it settles down.
had my HGF april last year & I've put in no more that two eggcups full since?

If it's done properly there should be no losses!! It's sealed or it's leaking


MikeS
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
replaced the plug and plroblem still there.... While out enjoying the sun on Saturday we parked up and went for a walk and when we came back to the car I noticed a puddle at the front drivers side of the car, so suspect leaking radiator, only seems to leek whil ewarm though. I bought some rad weld and put that in, leak seems to have stopped, fingers crossed otherwise I will buy a new radiator....

Now I need to sort out the window window mechanism on the drivers side...

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I know, but a badly leaking radiator the choices are 1) replace radiator 2) rad weld following by replace radiator 3) Rad weld and fixed.

I'm hoping for 3) but serious expect this to result in 2) it may just give a bit of time for me to find a decent price on a radiator.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
As I have already done this(!) Do I now order a new radiator and flush out the entire system with water, or is there a procedure I shuold follow to ensure that I don't kill the car completely

Pete
 

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I can understand the comments about RAD WELD but why the downer on WD40 - and please don't all shout at once !!
 

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petecowie said:
As I have already done this(!) Do I now order a new radiator and flush out the entire system with water, or is there a procedure I shuold follow to ensure that I don't kill the car completely

Pete
You need to flush the coolant system but I am not too sure what the best way of doing it is it may be worth asking in the “Gurus” section for a better feed back on how to get rid of Rad Weld.
 

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FSU said:
I can understand the comments about RAD WELD but why the downer on WD40 - and please don't all shout at once !!
WD40 is fantastic for what it was designed for and that is Water Displacement, the problem is that it’s misused and now mis-sold as a do anything lubricant. The problem is that tends to wash away any real lubricant away leaving a mixture of very light oil and silicon. The oil content is so light it disperses leaving the silicon that dust sticks to. WD40 is often used as a penetrating oil but its not even very effective at that as I found when stripping and removing nuts and bolts on a 1972 MG Midget.

There are a lot of people who have made good money rectifying the problems created by misuse of WD40, I’ve even seen a video recorder that was noisy so the owner shot a liberal coating of WD40 through the slot!
 
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