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MGF 75th Anniversary
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Peeps, I am new to the forum and proud fresh owner of MGF 75 anniversary model No. 1310 with just 65kmiles on the clock.
I am a trained mechanic though have never really worked professionally as one after my apprenticeship and master many moons ago, just working on my own cars ever since.
I am currently restoring an Innocenti Mini Cooper and have done many Minis, Allegros, Citroen CXs and BXs,.. you name it, beforehand. I am based in Austria, and thought an MGF might be a sensible choice as a daily for a handsome 50 year old, like me. 馃槑
So far my quick introduction, now comes the longish problem description. Sorry, cutting a long story short is not one of my talents :rolleyes::D

The problem and questions now:
During a check prior to purchase the car showed no "slime" in the expansion tank nor the oil. The head gasket had already been replaced by the previous owner (apparently as a precautionary measure).
When I picked up the car some 100miles away, I gently drove it for the first 15miles checking the cooolant temp (knowing about this MGF weak spot) , when suddenly I noticed the oil temp went up to 150deg, the coolant temp still in mid dial region.
Shortly afterwards the coolant temp rose and I stopped the car within a few hundred meters. Filling up coolant resulted in nothing but it pouring out again from one of the underfloor pipes.
The breakdown service man and I managed to bodge the pipework leak under the floor strengthening(?) plate with a piece of hose and clamps. Filled up the coolant, let it heat up - top up. Happy chappy!

I carried on with my trip for a staggering 3miles when a big bang and steam clouds from the engine bay forced a halt again. Breakdown chap towed me to their service centre again.
As far as we could see a T-shaped hose had split. Could it be this one: Hose Assembly - Heater Inlet/Outlet - PEH100790 or more likely one of the PRT hoses?

Questions, asking for opinion and best guesses:
  • Could the burst of the hose be caused by poor venting of the cooling system OR
  • How likely is it that the headgasket has blown and now causes overpressure? Given I rather quickly stopped.
  • Is above hose a known weak spot? Or what else shall I check replace precautionary?
  • Anything aelse to check / replace (e.g. is the expansion tank cap a potential failure source)?

Appreciate any suggestion and answers for this elsewhere probably already well documented coolant issue.
Sorry for umpteenth topic!
Cheers
Marcus
 

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At the moment it is rather very hard to predict what caused what, but generaly speaking rubber hoses under pressure tend to become weak after certain period of time and eventualy they will burst. This is no exception or car mark related.
 

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MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
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The 75th does not have a PRT but will have the pipe as shown in your link. This pipe is a common one to break , usually on the T, I've had one myself go there. There is also a likelihood your underfloor pipes have corroded from the inside out, another common problem with them, most people change them to a stainless set, again something I've done on a few of my F's and TF's.

Another weak area on the earlier mk1 F's (which the 75th is) is the radiators, usually on the bottom corners, I've changed the rads on both my 75th's and a few of my other F's....on one of my 75th's the rad let go when it was being loaded onto the trailer for me to get it home...seller looked mortified, I just shrugged it off as one of those things.

As you stopped relatively quickly I would assume the head and head gasket is probably ok. The only real way to find out is to change the hose and underfloor pipes, refill and bleed the system and then run until the rad fan kicks in whilst checking the temp is not rising to dangerous levels.

The pipe in question and the underfloor pipes are a pretty simple job to do, although the amount of bolts in the underfloor strengthening plate (which has to be removed) is a real pain

Forgot to say...welcome to the forum and lets see a picture of your 75th....assume its likely to be a silver one...which only one was ever made for the uk.
 

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I agree completely with Dert.

I would just add that your second problem was most likely caused by air in the system following the first failure and lack of bleeding at the roadside (for good and obvious reasons).

Good luck.
 
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MGF 75th Anniversary
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the answers and "kind words" which calmed me a bit in my panic attac over an expected HG-replacement. I will surely post pictures of my Frankenstein MGF 75. Suppose better in the respective section.
Tara
 

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MGF 75th Anniversary
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks once more, last weekend I was able to change the coolant pipe assembly for a stainless one along with the burst coolant hose (aka "the snake pit").
Bleed the system according to CJJ's instructions her eon the forum.
Managed the 100mls trip back home safely. Now I just need to swap the rock hard spheres for the refurbished ones I bought at CoWa-Car parts (COWA CarParts 鈥 Your MG F & TF Specialist).
Cheers
 

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MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
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Now I just need to swap the rock hard spheres for the refurbished ones I bought at CoWa-Car parts (COWA CarParts 鈥 Your MG F & TF Specialist).
Cheers
With refurbed spheres the ride will be transformed, especially as you will also have new fluid in the system (I think many F's still on the road have never been drained and refilled for years). When fitted, if you haven't got access to a vacuum system pump, fill the spheres with fluid using a syringe as best you can, then connect the pipes but do not fully tighten, then doing one sphere at a time (or all at the same time if you've enough helpers) pump the fluid in until it begins to weep out of the pipe connection to the sphere and then tighten it fully.. doing it this way will ensure there will be little to no air trapped in the pipes or spheres :) did my 75th this way a few months back as I couldn't access my Churchill pump and needed to use my home made pump I usually only use for pumping up....I also let the fluid drain back out once I had it to height and then repumped it it :)
 

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MGF 75th Anniversary
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Very helpful again, dert 馃檹 - Do I need to remove the brake servo to access the passenger side front sphere? Probably yes...馃槵
I only got the grease pump gun, but I will fit it with a 3-way valve, where one connection goes to an electric vacuum pump - we shall see if that does help in evacuating the system prior to filling...
 

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No, there is no need to remove the brake servo to access the sphere, its all done through the wheel arch once the mud shield is removed.
 
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