HI, i will type out a brief guide for you!

1. Remove the expansion cap.

2. Using mole grips, remove the coolant hose clip at the bottom right side of the radiator and pull back hose to empty the coolant system.

3. Remove air filter box and hose to acces the bleed nipple. (there should be 2 nuts/screws at the right hand side of the air box that fixes it on to the battery tray. Once undone, pull upwards being carefull to pull out the cold air feed pipe going in to the box). It should become clear when you do it.

4. Remove bleed screw (located to the right hand side of the engine on a metal pipe hovering over the gearbox).

5. flush through as many times as you want with a coolant flush, remembering to fit hose. (fill up and bleed according to the next instructions).

6. Attach hose, (leave bleed screw out for now). SLOWLY fill up your pre mixed coolant until you get a steady but constant flow coming out of the bleed hole. Once you are happy with this re fit the bleed screw and tighten. Continue filling up the coolant (slowly to aviod creating an air lock) and fill until MAX on the expansion tank. screw on expansion cap and massage all coolant hoses to releave any traped air. When you are happy with this, set heaters to hot (insinde car) and start the engine. Leave it running at no more than idle speed. Make sure the heaters are HOT and the temp stays at the halfwat position. Wait until the cooling fan kicks in and turn off the engine.

7. When the car has FULLY cooled down, remove the expansion cap and massage all coolant hoses to release any traped air.

8. Take for a drive (fully up to temp) and watch the temo gauge like a hawk!! If the temp gauge stays at normal temp, jobs a goodun!

(P.S when bleeding, KEEP THE EXPANSION CAP ON! The pressure it holds will stop the water from boiling and over flowing)

 

it is a idea before fitting the img to clean both faces it seals against,and to make sure the air bleed valve in the back of the head,where the inlet manifold water connection goes into,is clear,and i use a hylomar/loctite type sealant in the manifold recess,and around the gasket surface,that seals the water connection,manifold to head,there is no need to do the rest of the gasket.

 

Thanks for the advice guys, I will let you know how I get on

 

I have heard today that putting in the BLUE antifreeze rots the block from the inside and only the RED O.A.T should be used.

 

the blue or green ethylene glycol stuff was used in the k-series long before oat came along.the engines were designed in the mid 80's,and used the blue or green antifreeze until oat came late 90's.it would do no harm running either,its just the change interval alters to the oat longlife-4/5 years.i have run k-series during the 90's,and have had no problem at all.the only thing with the two,is they should not be mixed together.

See my guide in my signature for info on coolants you can use and why the above comment is a inaccurate facepalm moment.

 

the blue or green ethylene glycol stuff was used in the k-series long before oat came along.the engines were designed in the mid 80's,and used the blue or green antifreeze until oat came late 90's.it would do no harm running either,its just the change interval alters to the oat longlife-4/5 years.i have run k-series during the 90's,and have had no problem at all.the only thing with the two,is they should not be mixed together.

 

the blue or green ethylene glycol stuff was used in the k-series long before oat came along.the engines were designed in the mid 80's,and used the blue or green antifreeze until oat came late 90's.

Absolutely - Rover didn't start using OAT until 1999.