Would a faulty/seized clutch release arm cause the clutch to slip (can change gear no problem)

Yes, if the arm is seizing it will be slow to release giving the feeling of clutch slip. You may find it more prominent when pulling off rather then when changing up and down the box.

Best way to check is to remove the engine cover, locate the clutch slave cylinder and get someone to press the clutch peddle whist you check the arm movement..also check the slave cylinder to see if it flexes on the mount. The best way to really check is to remove the slave cylinder....take out "R" clip and pin, undo the two bolts holding it and just move to the side. You can then grip the clutch arm and see if it moves at all...if possible place a tube over it which will male it easier to try and move. If it is difficult to move, it is very highly likely the arm is seizing.

 

Mine was slipping a bit


Have a look here


http://forums.mg-rover.org/mgf-mgtf...rg/mgf-mgtf-sponsored-mgfntfbitz-12/fitting-modified-clutch-release-arm-296767/

 

Thank you CJJ, more or less got the gear box out now & read about this (lever arm seizing) whilst half way through. Will continue now and split gear box from engine check clutch & arm. When removed what is the correct operation of the arm (how far forward does it come with how much resistance) or will it become apparent please?

 

Thank you DERT, same question as to CJJ please (sorry thought both posts where CJJ's

 

The lever should return freely of it's own accord under the spring pressure of the clutch plate. If you have to help it then there is a problem.


If the gearbox is still on then I would advise spraying plenty of release oil on it and working it a bit. If it feels as though it is getting easier then you know there was a problem.


I had to do this regularly on my Freelander 1, as reverse started getting difficult to engage, which was a sign that the clutch plate wasn't fully disengaging.

 

Release arm is indeed seized, worked it for a while last night & got some movement but it won't return. Does the cylinder push it away (towards drivers side & the pressure plate return it back to passenger side?

Also what's the expected throw/movement on top of the lever?

 

The arm should move quite freely possibly an inch and half before it gets to press on the clutch. It's unlikely that without the slave cylinder connected to the arm you would be able to push the pressure plate.

If you place a spark plug socket over the clutch arm and then manage to get a bar into it (the water pipes make this difficult) you should be able to move it back and forth. you'll know when maximum movement is achieved either way just by the difference in resistance.

Did similar recently with my brothers TF, he then made up a tool to make the job easier...basically a bit of tube flattened slightly to give better fit on the clutch arm, a hole through the tube at the top and a piece of bar bent 90 degrees to fit through the tube and allow leverage. Will put up a pic of it later...works really well

 

Quick one for the folks in the know.

Recently had slipping issues which came more apparent coming back home up a steep and long hill (Rhiallt Hill) after a long drive. Now, the car won't move forward on my slightly inclined driveway unless I rev it over 3-4k in 1st with the clutch off the floor completely. My car is (and has been) a daily driver for the last 18mths and I've never had any problems changing gear or anything like this before. Over the last couple of months, I must admit that I have noticed the sensation of slip in some gears (4 & 5) when I have tried to accelerate fast - revs just go up and no speed has been gained.

Now, my question is: is this possibly a simple thing like the release arm? - I'm thinking NOT as even when cold, I can select a gear without issue and the pedal feels no different to what it did 18 months ago. The pedal goes up and down just the same and I checked the fluid in the master cylinder and its level is fine.

I've already bought an AP clutch kit, brake/clutch fluid and gearbox oil - in prep for it going into my chosen garage for a new clutch - but then some part of me thought it might not be the plate itself (maybe wishful thinking and after lots of reading up) and perhaps something less expensive.

What do you guys think? - given my daily driver usage and above info, is it more likely to be the 'big job' rather than the 'cheaper' job???? - my head is telling me its a new clutch required, but my heart (and wallet) are hoping for a lesser 'fix' - as doubtful as it might seem.

Just thought I would ask for some opinions.

 

Only way to find out is remove the engine cover and check the arm, that not an hard job and probably take 20 minutes tops

 

Fair comment, but I was wondering just how my clutch arm could be the problem when I have been driving it daily for months on end without much issue and I've been up and down the gears like a fiddlers elbow without any of the problems I've read of associated with the arm such as hard to engage gear etc etc.

I guess I'm just baffled how it could possibly be the release arm when it's been worked royally for the last year or so....

 

Follow dert's advice first - you have nothing to lose!

 

My brothers F has been his daily drive for the last three years, his clutch has started to slip over the past few months which he was thinking was down to clutch, but the symptoms are not those you'd expect, as in he can red line it without it slipping, we've not checked his but believe it is the arm.

My TF is a daily drive, back in September '15 after I'd done the front arms, etc. I decided to change the clutch fluid, couldn't get it to bleed, peddle just kept going to floor so left it a few days, when I went back to look at it, clutch peddle worked fine. Can only assume the arm was seizing and released itself on own when left alone.

My brothers TF, now that was deffo a seized arm, it blew the slave cylinder seals and was still as a stiff thing on viagra!!! Believe me, just undo the slave cylinder, try to move the arm by hand, if it moves relatively easy its not the arm, if it is stiff...enough said

 

Thanks for the advice chaps - I'll get the arm looked at properly before going ahead with the 'big costly job' of changing the clutch itself.

 

Can you change the clutch arm without removing the entire engine?

Or just lubricate it?

 

Can you change the clutch arm without removing the entire engine?

No you have to separate the gearbox from the engine.
Frankly the best way is to drop the rear sub-frame complete with engine and gearbox but I have heard that you can remove the gearbox in-situ but I can't imagine it's easy!
A replacement arm which includes a greasing point is the best way to go.