Driving yesterday car suddenly seemed under powered. When I pushed accelerator down further to compensate whole car started to judder. Only seemed to happen over about 2500 RPM and no warning lights came on.
I thought clutch problem? and drove home.
Today Car won't start. When trying to start the moment the engine catches it cuts out. Engine warning light is on (can't remember if that comes on as a bulb test).
Whats the best way to get this fixed when I dont know what the problem is?
Today I found plenum drain was full of water and cleared that and managed to make the car start - at last!
BUT
It was a very hesitant start. It kept searching for the idle speed and felt like it would stall any moment. I would have pulled the choke out if it had one, you know?
I kept it running for about 10 mins by keeping accelerator pressed in a bit. Eventually it idled roughly on its own. Promising. But after I switched off it wouldnt start again just like before.
I dont believe the fuel pump has dismantled itself as fuel clearly can get through at times
Chris. The fuel pump is under the drivers side of rear passenger seat. You can check its working by switching ignition to position 2 and listening carefully. It will usually run for up to 1 minute.
The fuel filter is under the left side (n/s) of the rear pass. seat. It is this that unscrews. Must be careful to position sealing rings correctly before screwing up tightly. It is at this point that the orange clip can be fitted to stop it happening again.
The underbonnet fuel pump will also run with ign. on & is positioned next to the battery.
Very late cars only have the rear tank pump.
The space where the ECU sits has a little gunk at the bottom and the drain seemed partially blocked. I couldnt see any water there and it didnt look like the ECU had been wet.
Is it OK to disconnect the big ECU cables so I can get it right out for closer inspection? I don't want to do that if I need special equipment to set it up again when I reconnect it.
The ECU looks like a sealed up metal block, any tips for making sure its dry inside?
(Thanks again everyone for helping me with this, together we can avoid the big garage bill)
Agood indication of whether the ECU has 'drowned ' is to look for tide marks on the pollen filter. Is it dry ???
It would appear from previous posts that if the battery is disconnected the ECU plug can be detached without problems when replaced (if ok obviously)
It is a slide fit up and down to remove and replace, no bolts or screws.
Clean and unblock plenum holes and you may wish to fit a new pollen filter while you are in there as it's so much easier with the ECU removed.
DIssconect the battery first the ecu isin a plastic box if its wet inside remove from box and place in awarm place for a day or so and then reasemble the unit
There was a sort of wrap around plastic sleeve attatched to a bracket on the chassis, is that what you mean?
I found a website showing a pic of R75 ECU http://www.the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/Rover 75.jpg
but I don't think this is mine. I'm sure mine was all silver and I didnt notice any screws
Yes a black plasic open ended box ecu is a silver box with all the plugs on ps make a note in which order you remove then if you dont then you cant get them back as you will find out
Well spotted, might well go for one of those too.
I am in Ipswich, so we are far apart
----
This post relates to a couple of recent posts (thanks guys)
It doesnt seem to be ECU, its more likely fuel filter. I took out the filter cartridge which was completely black, too dirty to let petrol through I thought. So I replaced the plastic filter housing without the filter cartridge and the engine worked perfectly That's the good news.
Now the bad news. I called a local garage with Xpart logo in their brochure to get a price. They said I can't buy the filter cartridge alone, I have to buy the whole plastic canister which will cost £52 + VAT Its beyond my ability to replace the canister so that part would be wasted (eBay!).
Does anyone know how I can get a filter cartridge on its own cheaper?
Or is there a cheaper one from another car that would do?
If memory serves me right somebody else managed to wash out the cartfridge in petrol and got it clear. It took some time and several washes but at least its a DIY option.
I've got the car running again using new fuel filter.
Problem in replacement
I forgot to thread the fuel pipe through the big metal locking nut. I didnt think about the nut until after I had started the car... so there was pressure in the fuel system. When I started pulling the pipe off intending to thread it through the nut, a lot of petrol spurted out (even with engine off) so I pushed it back on quickly. I left the car working without the locking nut. I still want to fit it sometime because filter might shake itself loose.
The how to guide mentions a Schrader valve to release the pressure. Unfortunately I couldnt locate this.
Can anyone give any more info for finding and using this valve on the K 1.8 Turbo engine?
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