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clutch problem prevent car starting (!) or is it something much worse?

2K views 26 replies 7 participants last post by  Chris IP5 
#1 ·
Driving yesterday car suddenly seemed under powered. When I pushed accelerator down further to compensate whole car started to judder. Only seemed to happen over about 2500 RPM and no warning lights came on.

I thought clutch problem? and drove home.

Today Car won't start. When trying to start the moment the engine catches it cuts out. Engine warning light is on (can't remember if that comes on as a bulb test).

Whats the best way to get this fixed when I dont know what the problem is?

Thankyou 1000 times if you can help.
Chris

Rover 75 Conn 03 plate
 
#5 · (Edited)
SORRY for my slow response.

That happened when I lent it to someone I dont know exactly how it went. I'm been trying to get through to him to ask.

Definitely trying to start in neutral, I just had another go.

Whining noise like a motor can be heard somewhere behind the glovebox area. Not noticed before but stereo would normally be on.

Would the juddering I felt fit with the fuel pump problem too?

THANKS in advance
 
#6 ·
Today I found plenum drain was full of water and cleared that and managed to make the car start - at last!

BUT

It was a very hesitant start. It kept searching for the idle speed and felt like it would stall any moment. I would have pulled the choke out if it had one, you know?

I kept it running for about 10 mins by keeping accelerator pressed in a bit. Eventually it idled roughly on its own. Promising. But after I switched off it wouldnt start again just like before.

I dont believe the fuel pump has dismantled itself as fuel clearly can get through at times
 
#7 ·
clutch problem?

Would reiterate to check the fuel pump/filter - had to replace mine last month and symptons were;

no power when driving
tickover all over the place
difficult starting

After repairing the filter with the recommended clip, car was back to normal AND seemed to have gained more power.

Would not have thought a clutch problem would give these symptoms.
 
#8 ·
Would reiterate to check the fuel pump/filter - had to replace mine last month and symptons were;

no power when driving
tickover all over the place
difficult starting

After repairing the filter with the recommended clip, car was back to normal AND seemed to have gained more power.

Would not have thought a clutch problem would give these symptoms.
Thanks for your story - how annoying I sympathise.

The clutch idea is out of the window now, I just didnt have enough experience.

I'm starting to think I am unlucky and the fuel pump has gone again. Still its lasted 3 years, which is longer than the first one did (9 months).
 
#20 ·
Fuel pump/Filter

:err: I'm thinking of replacing the fuel pump or trying the famous clip on it.
I'm trying to work out how easy this is for a total beginner....

I found this, particularly post #6
http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=151990

Is there a guide with pictures? The only pics I find links to don't exist anymore.
Neither does the PDF mentioned in post 3 :(
Chris. The fuel pump is under the drivers side of rear passenger seat. You can check its working by switching ignition to position 2 and listening carefully. It will usually run for up to 1 minute.
The fuel filter is under the left side (n/s) of the rear pass. seat. It is this that unscrews. Must be careful to position sealing rings correctly before screwing up tightly. It is at this point that the orange clip can be fitted to stop it happening again.
The underbonnet fuel pump will also run with ign. on & is positioned next to the battery.
Very late cars only have the rear tank pump.
 
#15 ·
The space where the ECU sits has a little gunk at the bottom and the drain seemed partially blocked. I couldnt see any water there and it didnt look like the ECU had been wet.

Is it OK to disconnect the big ECU cables so I can get it right out for closer inspection? I don't want to do that if I need special equipment to set it up again when I reconnect it.

The ECU looks like a sealed up metal block, any tips for making sure its dry inside?


(Thanks again everyone for helping me with this, together we can avoid the big garage bill)
 
#21 ·
Wet ECU



Agood indication of whether the ECU has 'drowned ' is to look for tide marks on the pollen filter. Is it dry ???
It would appear from previous posts that if the battery is disconnected the ECU plug can be detached without problems when replaced (if ok obviously)
It is a slide fit up and down to remove and replace, no bolts or screws.
Clean and unblock plenum holes and you may wish to fit a new pollen filter while you are in there as it's so much easier with the ECU removed.
 
#24 ·
ECU's may appear to be sealed but will still let water in!

In tank clip here - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....MESE:IT&viewitem=&item=180120690314&rd=1&rd=1

Where are you in the UK, Chris?
Well spotted, might well go for one of those too.
I am in Ipswich, so we are far apart :(

----

This post relates to a couple of recent posts (thanks guys)

It doesnt seem to be ECU, its more likely fuel filter. I took out the filter cartridge which was completely black, too dirty to let petrol through I thought. So I replaced the plastic filter housing without the filter cartridge and the engine worked perfectly :) That's the good news.

Now the bad news. I called a local garage with Xpart logo in their brochure to get a price. They said I can't buy the filter cartridge alone, I have to buy the whole plastic canister which will cost £52 + VAT :( Its beyond my ability to replace the canister so that part would be wasted (eBay!).

Does anyone know how I can get a filter cartridge on its own cheaper?
Or is there a cheaper one from another car that would do?
 
#27 ·
Schrader valve

I've got the car running again using new fuel filter.

Problem in replacement
I forgot to thread the fuel pipe through the big metal locking nut. I didnt think about the nut until after I had started the car... so there was pressure in the fuel system. When I started pulling the pipe off intending to thread it through the nut, a lot of petrol spurted out (even with engine off) so I pushed it back on quickly. I left the car working without the locking nut. I still want to fit it sometime because filter might shake itself loose.

The how to guide mentions a Schrader valve to release the pressure. Unfortunately I couldnt locate this.

Can anyone give any more info for finding and using this valve on the K 1.8 Turbo engine?
 
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