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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Clutch repair in progress on Rover 218SD

Hi there!

Concerning a Rover 218 SD with engine PSA XUD9A
-- I would like to know if it is possible in order to repair the clutch system to "pull back" or remove the gear box only
instead of taking off the whole engine/gear.box assembly ? (because I would be ill-equiped for that)

-- And just for information is the gear box aso of PSA origin or else?

Thanks a lot in advance

Jacques
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks a lot 418sld.
So I'm going to start dismanteling that car.

OK for:pG1 type

All these additional informations are really valuable !
This car being kind of a puzzling puzzle (to me at least) :O
My son bought it...without warranty, and the clutch broke two days later.

Any more pieces of knowledge everyone please ?

Thx
 

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rover_200_coupe
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Dammit, Neil! I've just changed my gear oil and used 10W30 semi-synth as specified in both the Autodata and the handbook. MTF94? Looks like a trip to M&K in Colwyn Bay for me :-( I suppose this also means a flush?

Thanks for the information, though, even if it wasn't quite what I wanted to hear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Hi Chronos. They say that Frog drool :bigeyes: works too. Better that MTF94!
And we've got some!!! Because the car for wich you gave me an info concerning the exhaust (catalytic or not) saw its clutch brake down.
And it is the reason of this new thread.

Thanks neilbaker86 for the gear box info; we just pushed the car in the garage and my son (wo disappeared of course) is going (eventually if he comes back lol!) to help me.
Thanks to you all and this nice forum
Best regards from Paris (sunny now)
 

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Oh, rats! At least you can get the 'box off without pulling the whole engine out. And, of course, the "able-bodied assistant" always disappears when there's dirty work (draining 'boxes, pulling driveshafts out, that sort of thing) to be done. Even worse for me, my wife is a qualified MOT inspector and I'm just an amateur, so I get to do all the grunt work whilst she stands there telling me how to do it and looking superior.

Of course, I get my own back when she wants to do anything with a computer ;)

Good luck with the clutch, Jacques. At least it's a nice weekend.
 

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10w40 is fine,but you'll need to change it every couple of years. The MTF94 doesn't ever need changing (apparently), and is slightly better. On some of the diesel PG1 boxes SAE80 was recommended too so I use 75-80 in my boxes as getting hold of MTF94 isn't always easy.
 

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Cheers, E_T_V. That's more like what I wanted to hear. I do change the transmission oil every 24 months as the service schedule requires, but if M&K have MTF94, I'll grab a can of it. As an aside, it could be worse: they could be the Peugeot 'boxes with the exploding diff casing :)

Of course, now you've told me the score, I don't have to rush out and buy some right now for which I'm very grateful.

Oh, and apologies to Jacques for hijacking his thread. I suspect he's enough on his plate right now without me bumbling in and causing thread drift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh, and apologies to Jacques for hijacking his thread. I suspect he's enough on his plate right now without me bumbling in and causing thread drift.
Not at all ! You are all welcome. :) Come around and have fun.

I get valuable infos there. Even in your chats.. :spanner:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Hello again
So, my son and I started the process to detach the gear box from the engine.
I disconnected the left U-joint from the left wheel side. Possibly, it might stay like this when I pull the box away from the engine.
But my question is about the other side (right side of the car) where there is a shaft coming from the gear box to extend to the right u-joint.
Do I have to take apart the pieces on the right exit of the gear box or will this extending shaft come off (pop off from) the box without my having to do anything more ?

thnx :)

Jacques
 

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If it si a PG1 box you can simply pop the shaft out of the box using a long flat blade/chisel to pry the cv joint out of the box. I'd remove the shaft from the other end though as trying to get the whole lot back together again is considerably easier without the driverside driveshaft getting in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for your answer E_T_V
trying to get the whole lot back together again is considerably easier without the driverside driveshaft getting in the way.
Makes sense. It will be easier in fact.
I stopped the works and will continue in two days or so. I will keep the forum in touch with our progress.

It will be the passengerside for me, beacause us, mainlanders have kept this strange and stubborn habit of driving on the right side of the road :) LOL!
Jacques
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Hello there!

I finally took the gear box down.
The part that has won out (I do not know the name in English :bigeyes: ) is the ballbearing-like "thing" that pushes the clutch when one presses on the pedal.
In fact it is completely destroyed. Even the plastic piece that holds it melted!

I will change the three Items: Disc/Clutch mechanism/and the "thing"

-------------
Meanwhile I have a big trouble with the mechanism inside the door that is the "elevator" for the window pan. Pieces of plastic are broken, i wonder if it is still on sale somewhere ? Is it a Honda part ?

:)
Thanks.
 

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That is called the "clutch release bearing". They don't often fail but they can get noisy. Looks like you've just been unlucky to have one fail.
 

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10w40 is fine,but you'll need to change it every couple of years. The MTF94 doesn't ever need changing (apparently), and is slightly better. On some of the diesel PG1 boxes SAE80 was recommended too so I use 75-80 in my boxes as getting hold of MTF94 isn't always easy.
10w40 isn't fine, it's suitable for "topping up" but it degrades the nylon bearing cages. I got 2.5 litres of MTF94 for about £13 from my dealer, so you may as well just use the proper stuff for the job.
 
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