if you suspect either inner c.v's,try un-clipping both sides,and re-greasing them both.they wear less than the outers as they move 'up and down' as opposed to what the outers have to do.its worth doing to see if it cures it,you can do it in-situ.

 

again,easy option,as i should have added,is to take off the gaiter,and re-pack with grease,working it well in.

 

could be the other outer cv

 

Given that the noise is steering-dependant, I doubt it's an inner CV joint (unless the boot is damaged).

As Popeye said, the other outer CV joint must be favourite, and as you have surmised yourself, the differential is a possibility.

You may be able to test the differential by jacking one wheel up, but if you try it, leave minimal ground clearance and put the handbrake on real tight - a faulty diff could cause the other wheel to pull you off the jack. HOWEVER, this would be a no-load test, so to be sure, you'd also need to apply the brakes (and do the other side afterwards).
NOTE : I'm not recommending this procedure, merely pointing out the possibility.

 

If you have to buy any mechanicals, try RockAuto, they are only just getting going in the UK, but their prices for the shaft with inner and outer CV's was the same as what we paid just for outer CV's (mk2 Golf) the othe week from Eurocarparts (Trade Price!)

 

The inner CV joint rubbers are in good condition so I don't think any muck has ever got in, but I'll try re-packing them and see if that helps things at all.

Would the passenger side outer CV joint make noise on left hand turns as well as right if it was faulty do you think? I'm trying to decide if it's worth replacing that one too.

 

Symptoms seem to be exactly the same as mine, only mine only really does it in reverse at 3/4 lock, mine sounds like its drivers side but having a couple of people have a listen at a past South meet it is indeed a knackered passenger side outer joint.

 

a cv joint can make noises in any or all directions mate

 

After a bit of poking around last night, I think I have found the issue. Here is a video of the passenger side driveshaft. It's the output flange of the diff that I'm moving, and it seems to have a bit of lateral play.

The rotational play I think is normal, but it's the in and out play which I think is causing the noise. Does this look normal?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CP5M5AMSRM

 

I would imagine that a little lateral play is normal to accomodate for the movement of the suspension arms. rotational play I think would sugest that you have worn CV joints
either way, they need replacing.

 

The only time I've ever messed with drive shafts is when I replaced the ABS rings last year, but there was definitely "in and out" play when the hub was off.

Try the other side, I suspect you'll find it's the same.

 

The only time I've ever messed with drive shafts is when I replaced the ABS rings last year, but there was definitely "in and out" play when the hub was off.

Try the other side, I suspect you'll find it's the same.

It's probably just one of those things then. I'll just leave it as it is and address it if it gets any worse.

 

I will also suggest CV joints having just replaced mine that were knocking

 

Hi
How easy/hard is it to replace outer cv joints? Anyone know of any guides for this on the forum..pics..?

 

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=433852&highlight=JOINT

 

There are other options too.

When I changed the ABS rings, I left the brake calipers on, I loosened the hub nuts with a 32mm socket directly on the breaker bar while the wheel was still on the ground, and I didn't use a ball joint splitter of any description.

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=432315 (no photos).

That's not to say that my methods are right and others are wrong, just that there's often more than one way to do something.

 

Just to update this thread, I can confirm that both CV joints were noisy. I changed one and still had noise. I found the other ABS ring was cracked, so changed that side too, and the noise just went away.

It's a pretty easy job to do if you are a basic DIY mechanic. The hardest part is breaking the driveshaft nuts loose as you'll need a very powerful impact wrench. I used a 240v mains operated one (450nm of torque). That, some heat, and some penetrating oil and they were off.

I split the lower and upper shock absorber ball joints to make it easier. The Haynes manual has a good guide for the whole process.