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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All Noticed that the lenses on my MGTF are feeling a little rough. So, is it OK to clay my headlights? I am worried that I will remove the UV coating!

Or can yourecommend a good headlight lense cleaner?

Robert
 

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Hi All Noticed that the lenses on my MGTF are feeling a little rough. So, is it OK to clay my headlights? I am worried that I will remove the UV coating!

Or can yourecommend a good headlight lense cleaner?

Robert
You wont have any success with clay as generally the plastic is too far gone and any UV protection is long lost, as per the previous post. I had a CLK that lights were so badly reduced that it came up on the MOT so I decided to do something about it, since repalcement could be up to £1k each side- I kid you not!
I tried the kits- SIMONIZ and it was quite gentle, but clearly I needed more, so I experimented using 1200 w/dry paper and G4 and that was successful. There are loads of videos on youtube of this and WD40 worked for about a week, so by all means try, but it wont last.You have more success with a machine for polishing , but its not essential and these tasks are best let to warmer months as its really not 5 mins work in a cold garage and quite messy.
 
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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Just to let you know the headlights are only 2 years old. So plastic should be OK, and hopefully UV coating. So do not want to undertake drastic wet/dry process.
 

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Im suprised they have started to glase that quickly. I presume aftermarket parts. My TF160 lenses were still bright when i sold it last year. my only complaint was the projector lights were of limited use in pitch-black conditions, so I upgraded them years ago to HIds. Any UV protection is a coating, so you will need to first remove wahts on there with a mild abrasive, be it paper, compound or similar.
 

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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hi PatM Let me explain. They are genuine MG/Rover replacement (MGTF). They are not damaged or glazed and very clear. However, when you run your fingers over the lense, it fees rough, not smooth like normal plastic, similar to when you run your finger over your paint work before you clay it. But smooth when you have finished.

So I am more concerned about the UV coating, and do not wish to remove it. That is why I thought that claying would be OK, but looking for confirmation.

I have tried soap, which appears to help but not to my satisfaction.

Robert
 

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1995 MGF Mpi
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The UV stabiliser is an additive to the plastic; it's throughout the plastic, not just on the surface. If the lights are only 2 years old and already turning hazy, then a very poor quality UV stabiliser was used. Best to buy one of the kits that has several grades of sandpaper and compound the sand off the degraded plastic and then polish them. You can buy a plastic stabiliser coating to put on once you have restored the plastic.
 

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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter #8
Hi mowog73 - No they are not turning hazy. They are not damaged or glazed and very clear. However, when you run your fingers over the lense, it fees rough, not smooth like normal plastic, similar to when you run your finger over your paint work before you clay it. But smooth when you have finished.
 

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Hi PatM Let me explain. They are genuine MG/Rover replacement (MGTF). They are not damaged or glazed and very clear. However, when you run your fingers over the lense, it fees rough, not smooth like normal plastic, similar to when you run your finger over your paint work before you clay it. But smooth when you have finished.

So I am more concerned about the UV coating, and do not wish to remove it. That is why I thought that claying would be OK, but looking for confirmation.

I have tried soap, which appears to help but not to my satisfaction.

Robert
Id suggest they are degrading due to inferior construction/materials if that is happening. Some years back, i bought a BN car that had light-guards as an optional extra. They were just cheap plastic that barely lasted a year due to the surface becoming abraided by the motorway driving, all weathers thrown at them.
 

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mg_tf
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You could try 2000 grade wet and dry (use wet) then lighly polish with T-cut. See how that goes. I started resurfacing my (paraffin damaged) light lenses last year but got diverted (life), but it takes a bit of effort to get through the UV coat so a quick blat with 2000 grade and T-cut shouldn't go through it. Maybe try 1000 grade if the 2000 doesn't remove the texture but you should understand it's at your own risk and the first indication you've gone too far and through the UV coat will be a subtle edge pattern starting to appear on the lens surface where you're sanding. You can't wind the clock back from there ;0)
 

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A machine will do the final polish using Top Kote or similar (brother of Farecla G4). Thats what I finished mine with.I did not put anything on to 'coat' them, just polished with Mer.
 

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So if I read this correctly your lights are not cloudy or damaged just when you rub your fingers over the plastic they feel rough.
If the performance of the lights is not affected I don't see what the problem is, also any type of buffing, polishing will remove some of the surface but other than cosmetic reasons won't do anything to benefit the performance of the headlights.
I had spoken to a yacht company in Plymouth who offered a buffing service about bringing my lights back to crystal clarity a few years back. At the time their advice was until they were so fogged up that performance was affected to leave alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
trevtherevs - Yes you are correct lights are not cloudy or damaged just when you rub your fingers over the plasticit feels rough. So. I am going to follow your advice and leave well alone.
Thanks
Robert
 
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