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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, as I've already posted, I've got the machine gun sound on my passenger door central locking ('97 F), and the clear advice seems to be don't super lock, and change it quick.

BUT, does anyone know exactly what this sound is? I assume (and this is based on no knowledge whatsoever) that the sensor to tell the mechanism when to stop is faulty, hence it keeps on trying to move and one of the cogs is slipping. If thats the case, I assume (that word again!) that this can be repaired, rather than completely replaced. If anyone knows how, I'd be grateful to learn.

On a side note, what could cause the key fob range to be so poor, it pretty much only works if pressed to the top of the roof, or passenger door. I've got new batteries (at 3.3v) in each fob, and have done the syncronisation thing (pressed lock button repeatedly in ignition). Any other idea?
 

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Didn't PeteVick give you a link last time you posted about this (noise)?... Thought he did... :dunno:

I think the remote range is pretty poor due to the position of the 'reciever' (or whatever it's called) in the car...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Petevick did indeed give a link, sorry I forgot to thank at the time. The only reason for the new thread was an interested in what actually caused the noise, and whether it could be reparied rather than replaced. Also to name of the last thread was a little misleading.

Anyway, sounds like chaning the lock mechanism is a job for the weekend. Just one last questoin (honest! ), do I have to specifically look out for a MK1 lock, or will a more recent one fit?
 

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As you can see on the link, mine failed in exactly the same place. It is just a plastic shaft that snaps of the body. Did somebody say cheap?? Surely not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
another question I'm afriad (last one, honest), for those with the snapped plastic fitting, had this broken when the noise started, or was it only when the lock had completely failed?

In mine, the door lock actually works perfectly, but then the motor keeps on going too long, and makes the noise. Thats why I wonder if its a sensor or microswitch not stopping the motor in time, causing the cogs to slip (with the noise) and eventually the stress causes the pin to break?
 

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If I remember rightly, the antenna for the fob is behind the centre console and can be uncoiled or moved to give better reception. Somebody may be along with more info.

I got my new lock off ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks CJJ, that sounds simple enough even for me to do

Wait for my panicked post about having removed the entire dashboard, and not knowing how to put it all back together.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I did read the post, but I'm sure I read somewhere else that the connections could be different.

Anyway, onto the key fob range, I found the yellow wire, which can't have been any longer than 8", strangely with 5mm of bare wire at the end (good mix of imperial and metric there). I untangled it, which meant I could unlock by holding the key fob next to the driver's door rather than on the roof, then I added another 10" of wire, which means I can now work it from up to two feet from the door, which goes down as a minor success.
 

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Dont ask me, as you can see above , I can't even spell aerial. :D

What I do know from my CB days is that the harmonics of the length is important according to the frequency.
 

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I'm pretty sure you're winding me up CJ and know a lot more than you're making out ;) but yes, wavelength = speed of light divided by frequency. The speed of light is a constant, so wavelength & frequency are interchangeable terms in general chat like this.
 
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