MG-Rover.org Forums banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

Registered
Joined
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there, ive just picked up an 2004 MGTF 115 Spark, which I didn't expect to have central locking, so I was about to buy a set and fit them, but before I did I thought id check the cabling was there as expected.
To my surprise, not only is the cabling there, but also the locks looks like the central locking ones, all cabled in... so my guess its just SCU that needs enabling. but my question is, does anyone know it it possible to just apply a voltage to the locks to test they actually work, before going through more hassle? the fuses all look fine, and the alarm seems to work as expected.
 

Rover Lifestyle
Rover 200 Rover 600
Joined
13,444 Posts
Yes, you can check if locks work but strongly suggest to isolate testing lock from the rest of wiring in sense that you disconnect the plug from wiring and test the lock on the plug by applying 12 volts DC. Of course you need to know what wire you can test in order not to damage something else.
 

Rover Lifestyle
Rover 200 Rover 600
Joined
13,444 Posts
Pink wire is used for locking, Orange wire is used for unlocking. Both of these two wires are connected to respective side of C/L motor.

You need to be aware that you can just make a puls to these wires in order to activate the C/L motors to each side. Constant feed WILL fry the motors.
 

Registered
Joined
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pink wire is used for locking, Orange wire is used for unlocking. Both of these two wires are connected to respective side of C/L motor.

You need to be aware that you can just make a puls to these wires in order to activate the C/L motors to each side. Constant feed WILL fry the motors.
looking at it there are two connectors, one with 2 cables. one with 3.. could the 2 cable be for the alarm?
 

Rover Lifestyle
Rover 200 Rover 600
Joined
13,444 Posts
looking at it there are two connectors, one with 2 cables. one with 3.. could the 2 cable be for the alarm?
Wire colours are important. What are wire colours?
 

Rover Lifestyle
Rover 200 Rover 600
Joined
13,444 Posts
Drivers door lock has 2 connectors, passenger has only one connector. Drivers door lock has 8 wires and passenger only 5. Separate connector does not have separate function. Wires are just that way put into 2 connectors. Drivers door lock has additional functions, like superlocking or EKA code entering. That is the reason for additonal wires.

Now, I cannot help you with wire colours on the lock itself, as depending on the manufacturer they will place wire colours from their choice.
What I can help is wire colours from the car loom. Below you will see picture of the connector from car's loom side, not the one you have on your above picture. So be careful when counting positions on the connector as it will be mirror picture.

Rectangle Font House Facade Parallel


In case of RHD car pin number 1 is Orange wire and pin number 4 is Pink wire.

In case of LHD car pin number 3 is Orange wire and pin number 6 is Pink wire.

Since I do not know which version of the car you have, I provided both options.

As I said above Pink wire is for locking, Orange wire is for unlocking. Also DO NOT FORGET that you can apply only pulse signal to the wire since continuous feed will FRY the central locking motors.
 

Rover Lifestyle
Rover 200 Rover 600
Joined
13,444 Posts
You must pull both connectors, otherwise you might damage it. Ground, in case of motors is other wire. You have this pair, Pink and Orange. If you put pulse on Pink other wire is ground. If you put pulse on Orange other wire is ground.
 

Registered
Joined
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for your help with this. Now I can test to see if the lock functionally works and if the car is sending the signal to unlock. It might be a few days before I get time to play, but I鈥檒l let you know how I get on鈥. I owe you a beer/tea/coffee/milk
 

Registered
Joined
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just a quick note to update you on this one

so, as advised I put tried pulsing 12v accross the (disconnected) pink & orange wires on the lock, and to my surprise it worked!! both locking and unlocking with a brief pulse. putting a voltmeter on the loom and locking/unlocking we could see no pulse on the pink/orange wires.

now, with the lock completely disconnected I tried locking and alarming the car, as 'normal', but the alarm wouldn't arm. but once all connected back up again it would. so my conclusion is this.....

The central locking locks work fine
The SCU 'knows' about the central locking (as the alarm wouldn't arm when disconnected)
so my guess is that it is the relay on the SCU board that isn't working.

but just to be on the safe side I think I'll send it off, and get another alarm fob while im at it.

Thanks RoverLike for all your help
 

Registered
'10 TF135 Style
Joined
421 Posts
S_Hadley1138 I think that checking/renewing the relays on the SCU is a really good idea; you won't know if they're the originals 'til you take them out. My 2005 TF115 decided to lock its passenger door and I ended up breaking out and replacing the lock before I found out that the weak oem SCU relays could have been the cause :(. Anyway it seemed a 'no brainer' to get Technozen to check and replace them with sturdier units to underline the repair.

Last year I had my 2010 TF 'Technozened' (since those SAIC models don't seem to have a functional EKA code) and I was concerned to discover that the driver door lock had seized due to lack of use (I suppose...). 'Once bitten twice shy' was the order of that day...

In my own experience I think you're wise to suspect these SCU relays and I personally feel that they ought to be checked at 5-yearly intervals to be absolutely sure of them.
 

Registered
Joined
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, from what I can tell, I鈥檓 confident it鈥檚 the relays and I could do it myself, but I could do with another alarm fob too, so I think it would be best send it over to technozen for a proper job
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top