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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Brakes Bindin Ahhhh

Howdy, well as someone rightly said a few weeks ago when I smelt something funny when I went over 70mph, ( i mean on 70mph ) your brakes maybe binding, I think they are now, almost sure. I drove a 20 min drive home from work by the end I could hear a squeek everytime I went around a corner, I wondered what it was , it sounded like squeeky brakes but i wasnt brakin so it seemed weird. I thought suspension. I got it home jumped on the car ( not literally ) & suspension is fine , then felt my alloys Fook man they were hot.

Soooooooo can anyone give me a guide how to clean the calipers & pads up please ( i take it thats how you stop them binding :p )


CHEERS
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
okey nm I figure that part out for myself, next step taking the calipers off, I am having major problems with the two bolts. There is very little chance of me being able to get them off ( IMHO ) Ive sprayed with WD40 ( not on DISCs :p ) & then tried no change, tried more torque etc, *blows* I didn't really wanna be spending anymore money on the car, looks like I might have to see a professional. Any ideas ???


Secondly I found out I have a leak ...... darn, luckily it isn't coolant, it IS a gasket though, but the oil sumps, so not too bad there really. (must been when I over filled the oil when i changed it when the dip stick snapped ) spose I'm lucky its only the oil sump gasket thats gone really, from the thought of it I suppose changing the gasket is easy ?? ( please confirm this , & if it is I was thinkin instead of wasting the fairly new oil in the system should I use it as an excuse to use a engine cleaner ??? Cheers people , need some replies please :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is more of an updates than anyting else aint it lol


well my dads looked at it he says CHANGE THE DISCs, lol so looks like its goin the garage what ever the weather. Tomorrow, my usual mechanic is too busy to do me, so kwik fit looks like the only other option as I want it done fast, I have expendable cash just I dont want to pay stupid prices. Whats the usual price?

ANything that usually gets changed with the discs ???


thanks
 

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Check the discs.. If they are badly scored or excessively worn then change them. If not then don't bother. I'm afraid without seeing them it is impossible to advise if they need changing or not.
You'll need a new set of pads obviously
Also you MUST fix the cause of the binding breaks (usually a sticky caliper) when you replace the pads or otherwise within a few months you'll have the same problem again. If you take it to a dodgy kwick fit etc then all they'll do by default is change the pads and probably the discs and not bother spending time on cleaning up the calipers (or even replacing them in bad cases) unless you really insist on them fixing the seized caliper as that is the root cause of the problem

For future reference if the brakes start making horrid metallic noises then get the pads changed/checked ASAP otherwise you'll ruin your discs.
 

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check the ware of the disks each side if one side has warn more than the other it is very likely that it is that caliper thats sticking then its a case of changeing that caliper and pads the disk may be fine but it could also be worn exsesively due to the binding
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
oooh thanks guys, well I could take a phto of the disc if that would help, I'm not sure if the disc need changing ( never had the experience ) but there is a metal rim goin all the way around which is quite wide, only reason I wanted kiwk fit is cuz I can't undo them bolts ( SIEZED imo , lol or im weak , which i dont think I am, just everything on this rovers wheel arches have rusted to buggery)


as for the one wheel being bindin one not , when I checked the wheels one was REALLY hot I mean lick you finger & touch the wheel nut TSSS hot, ( lol mby a lil bit of an overstatement but i've never felt wheels tht hot before ) the other was just warm, I just chipped away at the rust for the moment, not tht that will have done anything just made my drive dirty :p
 

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your pads may have just siezed in the carriers(mine did)when u eventualy get the caliper off check the pistons releasing properly,if it is clean carriers and stick new pads in adding some copper grease on carriers and back of pads.

ian
 

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Usually the sliding pins dry out and stick from the heat.

Swing the caliper out of the way and undo the carrier from the hub.
Remove the slide pins and clean them up, check for wear or any flat spots.

Apply some graphite grease and re-assemble.
Off the top of my head I think the carrier to hub bolts are about 100NM.
I'll need to check though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
if its 100NM does that mean I won't be able to do it myself, or does it mean I'll be levering myself againt something & using my weight as well as my strength to pull it down >??



How do you mean 'swing the caliper out of the way' ?? Sorry i've never done brakes before,
Don't know if my dad was just trying to get me to see a professional, but he said if I pull the callipers off the pins will close & I won't be able to get em back together ( like i say though I swear hes thinkin of everything to get me to get it done properly, like with the discs )
 

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he means you need to tighten them back up to a specific torque (or tightness of the nut) which means you need a torque wrench, which im guessing u dont have. Try youre local garage, dont use quickfit.
 

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100nm is not a lot but u do need proper tools halfords profisinal range's are pritty good and cover all the tools u would nee for the caliper bolts u will need the apropriat sized scocet and a 24" breaker bar then it will come of very nicely.

they have a 1/2" set with all the comon size socets/ extentions/ rachet ect which i have and find perficly serfisiant for most jobs then just get a 24" breaker bar of the shelf and u should have no problems.

remember to use axle stands when lifting the front of the car better to be safe then sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
lol looks like a garage then, trying to think of something other than kwik fit, but TBH they're the only ones I know, ( part from my usual guy but hes busy as ****) you think I could last a week with the brakes like this , after I put wheel on last night i just drove round my village & it just as normal as it used to be brakes feel fine ( well i mean they work, didn't squeek ((altho they often do dependin on the weather )) )& the alloys wern't REALLY hot or warm when it got back. *shrugs* justs hes really cheap cuz i knw him, so i know if I took it too a professional garage it would cost A LOT more.
 

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its youre cool really u have seen the pads do u think they will last?

my caliper was sticking and i drove on it for quite some time just depends how bad if its seems ok for now and was moveing freely when u looked at them the other day
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i dont knw everyone whos driven my car I've made comment about the brakes (because as we knw they are quite frankly *fill in word here* ) they all say they feel good, not spongey dont go down too far & yeh they do feel good, (just they can't stop you very well ) (( i'm goin off these being rover 200 mk3 brakes, compared to my fiesta mk3 brakes , which i add could literally stop you on a penny, these are very shocking ))so can I go off the feel of the pedal, or does it have to be off the visible sight ? ( cuz I havent a clue visually )

Thanks btw
 

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Not the news you want to hear but,

If your braking system is suspect, do not drive the car. Your own safety comes 1st!

As for the discs, well, if the brakes are binding it will wear the pads, and eventually the discs. you may well be neding new discs, (and definately pads) but these are the symptoms of your problems, not the cause! The cause is very likely the guide slider pins as mentioned above. It could also however be the piston in the brake caliper, which would mean either a new caliper, or caliper rebuild. Piccy's would be a good help!

Also, and again this isn't the news you want to hear, if you aren't 100% sure on how to work on your brakes, I'd leave them alone, until the garage can do it, or find a mate who does know and buy him a few pints to let him do it whilst you 'watch and learn'.

As for costs, well, a well known tyre garage who have chains all over UK, and apparrently you can't get better than one of their fitters (if you know what I mean) did a mates Belmont SRi, new Discs, pads, and caliper, £300! IMO you'd be £80-100 for pads and discs, and £50 (ish) for a caliper, or cheaper still from a breakers.


Hope this helps!

CAM

PS can I be smug at getting the diagnosis of the funny smell right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
lol you may cam :p



oops I just went out to see if it was as bad today *coughs* saw a clio sport, hehe no you couldnt over take could you Hahaha, ( i managed to pull out on a roundabout infront a car he had to go after the car & i had a big enough gap so he didnt have the satisfaction of overtakin me :p on a national dual carriage way, so all is legal , we were followin a Volvo estate cop car, yeh you were doin 70 werent you , lol no one could keep up. ( no flashers on either, cant blame em thou the road is fantasic )



Ok I shall not drive the car unless necessary, well you see they were fine up till 70mph again, then that smell occured, as soon as I slowed down to 50mph, it was all dandy the brakes didn't feel worse at any time though, its just I was braking really early cuz yeh you get bloody scared at 70 you can't stop for a roundabout.



I best go see my mechanic friend again, even tho hes full I might be able to book me car in one morning this week, ( & then drive car through towns only to work so I cant speed :) ) this is a blow though was saving up for zr :'( so I should budget for £200 + ??



thanks for all advice given , shame its an expensive problem , spose the money I saved on the insurance can go on this though ( 203 pounds saved lol (
 

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might not be expensive,you will only find out when u get the caliper off.u might only need new pads and the carriers cleaned up.most discs have a bit of scoring on em doesnt mean there scrap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
lol yeh i hope so, I just been up to a garage ( yeh forgot we had one just over a mile away DUH ) he looked at em said the pads look low, bring it back tomrw & I ll change em, I said bout it makin the funny smell, he said its just the pads bein so thin now they re rubbing together, so HOPEFULLY this is all it is, *please* lol I mean if it is I'm not mindin the price of some pads, I'm just worried hes not just jumped to a conclusion. Well I 'll find out tommrw
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
adding to this though, the MPG has definately gone down this week , normally get 225 for 25 pounds this time I'm on 170 & bout 20-30 miles left in the tank. So definately is a problem. I shall not drive it till tomorw now :( I shall have to go in my mates corsa *wimpers* lol
 

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no1knows said:
adding to this though, the MPG has definately gone down this week , normally get 225 for 25 pounds this time I'm on 170 & bout 20-30 miles left in the tank. So definately is a problem. I shall not drive it till tomorw now :( I shall have to go in my mates corsa *wimpers* lol

Yup! thats because the brakes are on all the time, and the engine is having to push harder to get it to move, therefore using more fuel.

Upside is you'll notice some difference when you get that car repaired, going to feel much faster, responsive etc.

I seriously doubt your local garages theory about the low pads though!!


CAM
 
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