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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone done any boot builds for there car, i have just the standard sub with box and amp flying around in the boot and wanna do something different and make some sort of build.. Ive bought a fibreglass kit and want to give it a go.

Does anyone have pics of there own so i can get an idea of what can be done?
Cheers
 

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I don't have one at the moment but want to do a PC one :)

I need the boot for various things including a pushchair for my son so it's got to be discreet as well.

It would be interesting to see what other people have done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry dude didnt mean like that meant for subs.. But spose u could get some ideas from that... what about a secondary shelf to go over the chair when its in the boot so u have a flat surbface too.
 

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That's ok. I just thought I'd sort of add my idea and hopefully get some from other people.

It would just be cool to see what people have done for theirs and maybe I could get some ideas from that. If not, then oh well, no harm in looking :)
 

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I dont have a pic yet! But i will get one :)

I will describe what i have.. :eek:

Wall about 2 inch or so from back seats.. 2 Coax's in their at a angle, neons behind the board ot light up some gaps in the wood (cutout) False floor with 2 amps in, above that another false floor over the amps with a plastic glass cover to view amps.. Then two side boards curving (like a half pipe) with a sub in each side... hard ot explain.... but i'll get pics soon :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
that sounds like the sorta thing im looking at doing...

2 10's in each corner with 2 amps in a fake see-thru floor which power sub+door speakers..
 

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that sounds like the sorta thing im looking at doing...

2 10's in each corner with 2 amps in a fake see-thru floor which power sub+door speakers..
planned the same, i got my front comps powered by amp in rear and plan on continuing, however i wanted 2 12" (Metal and Rock mainly) but worried about handling and weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
planned the same, i got my front comps powered by amp in rear and plan on continuing, however i wanted 2 12" (Metal and Rock mainly) but worried about handling and weight.

Im into dnb/breakz.. which comes under the same as metal/rock.. Ive been told 10's are what u want. and that 12's are for garage, dub and basslines that they create.. Dont hold me up on it but ide look it up before u go out and do it :)
 

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sub choice doesnt rely on the size, alot of people are lead to believe that 10" subs are punchier and 12" subs give deeper bass, its nonsense, my Genesis 12" sub is alot punchier than alot of the lower spec 10" subs out there

its all about the quality :)

moved to the ICE section
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thats hepfull geeza...

I will have a proper read a bit later when im at home, ive seen some jbl subs going for £45 which i thought was gd.

U see where uve got your side bits on ur boot closed off mulletboy, thats where i want the subs (1 on each) then the amp set like ur but on the bottom.
 

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I like your rear speakers mulletboy2, are those 6x9"s? :D
Smartazz :lol:



More pics/info: http://www.icecavern.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2663

U see where uve got your side bits on ur boot closed off mulletboy, thats where i want the subs (1 on each) then the amp set like ur but on the bottom.
Sounds good mate :D There's one or two good stealth sub box tutorials over in the FAQ section on talkaudio, that I'd suggest you take a look at before starting. There's lots of different ways to skin the cat.

Couple of helpful tips:

Apply masking tape as a first layer if you're planning on using gaffer tape - masking tape is a LOT easier to remove.

When taping up, start at the bottom and work upwards - this is a must to protect your interior

ALWAYS lay down extra protection in the surrounding areas... you don't have to spend hours taping - a black bin liner secured aroudn the edges will do

For the first layer of fibreglass, use spray glue to fix it up the side walls of the boot.. this will help hold it in position when you add the extra weight of the resin

Let the first layer go completely hard before applying a second - this will give you a much rougher surface to work with, which will help subsequent layers to adhere.

Always make the base/sides of the build bigger than you think you'll need - it's easier to reduce the volume of a box than it is to increase it.

Use a 2% catalyst mix in warm weather - no more.. if you want to aid the fibreglass going off, use a heat gun for a few minutes. Careful not to leave it heating the thing whilst you go and make a cupper - it could spell "fire"

HTH

Mark
 
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