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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, my clutch went t'other day.....Started to feel spongy and then just went, could only get 3rd and reverse.......

I've bought a new master cylinder but I wanted to bleed the clutch first to see if that was the problem. Could always resell the cylinder if need be.

I got some fluid (Dot 4), a closed valve bleed pipe.

Method 1, I located the bleed screw, stuck the bleed pipe on it, undid the Master cylinder cover. Opened the bleed screw, raised the pedal, lowered the pedal, raised and lowered etc etc checking that fluid is topped up in reservoir.......At first I got some fluid out of the bleed pipe, but the pedal would always drop straight to the floor. No matter what I did, I couldnt get any pressure to build in the pedal.

So I ditched the bleed pipe, thinking that maybe the valve was faulty, and proceeded to method 2.

Remove cover from Master cylinder, Open bleed screw, raise pedal, close bleed screw as pedal is pressed down, check the fluid (top up if needed), repeat procedure......And, nowt.......Pedal is still flat to the floor :cus:

What am I doing wrong......???? I have bled brakes and clutches before, albeit a good while ago, is there anyhting in my methods that are incorrect?

I dont want to replace the master cylinder if it is not needed, but at this rate I might just have to......

Riki
 

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Fluid is displaced when you press the pedal not when the pedal is raised.

No need to keep locking up the bleed screw as you bleed.

All that is required is a plain tube on the bleed screw and into the bottom of a jar. You will be able to see the aerated fluid being expelled.

When bleeding you will have to raise and lower the pedal by hand as the return spring is not strong enough.

You will need assistance to ensure the master cylinder fluid level does not drop enough to allow air in otherwise you will have to start all over again.

If this doesn't work the master cylinder is u/s and will have to be changed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, the old master cylinder had definitely had it......so I had to swap it out for the new one, what a bloody pain it was, the junction that holds the master cylinder in it is a ******** design. A small circular piece of metal, bit like a washer, holds the plug end in. There is a bit of plastic that you push down to release the connector. However, if the connector was joined incorrectly it bends the holding pins, meaning it cannot be uncoupled without a good bit of ingenuity. I used some mole grips on either side and brute force.

Anyhoo, fitted the new master cylinder and it worked great for all of 5 mins :shake:......I bled the system, got a good deal of pressure in the pedal. Gear selection was superb. Then, while trying to reverse out the drive there was a clunk, then the pedal dropped to the floor again :cus:

I'm going to try and bleed it as c4a5er suggested, but I am beginning to think that the clutch is fubar and will need replacing.......:sad2:

So far it's cost me £100 for a master cylinder, fluid and bleed pipe. Not looking forward to having to find another £350-500 for a new clutch.

If anyone sees what looks like the ugliest prostitue hanging around Bolton, dont be afraid, it'll just be me trying to pay off my garage bill :ymca:

Gives a new meaning to the phrase 'Gettin shafted by a garage!' :scary:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
:Update:

Master cylinder not apparently the problem........It appears to be the slave:sad2:

Oh well, now it's new clutch time......:faint:

Does anyone know any decent clutch replacement garages in or around Bolton/Chorley area.......Cheapest I've been quoted is £500 so far......There must be somewhere cheaper than that ???
 

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Discussion Starter #5
:UPDATE of the UPDATE:

Had a new clutch fitted today, £402 fitted plus the £100 I paid for the new master cylinder :faint:........I is officially poor now:sad2:

At least it's fixed, but it'll take me a bit of time to get used to it again. Why is it that when your car gets sick you lose all confidence in driving it :dunno:

Anyhoo, I have a feeling the bite point is slightly lower, but the gear changes are smoother so it seems a fair trade off.......Fingers crossed it is fixed, otherwise it'll be seeing the nozzle end of a petty can :toastie:
 

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:UPDATE of the UPDATE:

Had a new clutch fitted today, £402 fitted plus the £100 I paid for the new master cylinder :faint:........I is officially poor now:sad2:

At least it's fixed, but it'll take me a bit of time to get used to it again. Why is it that when your car gets sick you lose all confidence in driving it :dunno:

Anyhoo, I have a feeling the bite point is slightly lower, but the gear changes are smoother so it seems a fair trade off.......Fingers crossed it is fixed, otherwise it'll be seeing the nozzle end of a petty can :toastie:
Well you can always go and hang around in Bolton as you suggested. Your earnings could reduce the garage bill a bit !!!!! :tic: :tic: :oops:
 

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Re: Rikib

Hi mate, I'm in the same predicament as yourself.

Here's my thread:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/whats-your-clutch-pedal-like-141602-3.html#post1432117

What garage did you use in the end to get your TD4 sorted, what did you get changed?

Flywheel, Clutch, Release bearing, Slave Cylinder in the bell housing, Master slave cylinder - if so how much for the lot to be changed??


I'm in Manchester and it seems my TD4 is rendered undriveable due to my recent bleeding the master slave cylinder clutch.



Cheers
 

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Please help I have a Td4 it was driving fine until when the fluid line from the master cylinder disconnected itself, I have tried to bleeding but all in vain. Clutch, slave cylinder, master were changed recently.
 
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