MG-Rover.org Forums banner

Alternator problem

3.2K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  Bills_metro  
#1 ·
Hi just a quick bit of advice needed. I had the RAC to look at my M reg Rover 1.11 Metro because my car wouldn't start. He told me the alternator was faulty. He told me that it would be a relatively straight forward job which would involve unscrewing 4 bolts and replacing the alternator.

I went to a parts shop and they brought me an alternator from a metro 100 I think it was. When I brought the alternator from the parts shop back I thought that it didn't look right. But I thought that I would need to take the old alternator out anyway so set about on it. It wasn't a simple task and took a while to unscrew but eventually I did manage it. Unfortunately now I can't take the alternator out of the car and looks like a mighty big job to take it out.

Is the best way to take it out of the top of the car or the bottom of the car? Both will involve various unscrewing of complex bits. Second, websites seem to suggest that there isn't a great deal of difference between alternators for Metros but this alternator is clearly different, how specific do I need to be when asking for an alternator which fits in my car? Any other advice would also be greatly appreciated.
 
#2 ·
I think the alternator on a R100 is different to the metro one as the engine management was changed for the 100. You need to jack up the front of the car adjust the steering so you can get at it, remove the oil filter (pain in the arse i know but you can do an oil change while your at it) remove the adjuster bracket and take it out the bottom of the car.
 
#3 ·
Observations

I am wondering if a part of the problem in the alternator differences is the description of the car. You called it a 1995 Metro, but by '95 weren't they all Rover 100's?

Maybe you do have a Metro, made before '95 but first registered in '95, and they have supplied a Rover 100 jobbie? Or conversely, if they have supplied a Metro alternator and your car is a Rover 100 that could maybe explain it? Or are carb/SPi/MPi alternators different?

I will be honest and say I don't know if a Metro alternator is different to an early Rover 100 alternator, if they arent different then maybe what they have supplied is the wrong thing altogether?

As for getting it out of the car, I think some have wangled it by undoing radiator fixings without actually disconnecting it, and then there is something in the back of my mind about removing the bumper, but forgive me if thats my imagination. Some suggest undoing an engine mounting can help but that must be a real pain!
 
#5 ·
More complicated?



I suggest that removing the exhaust would be more complicated and not worthwhile.

The majority of the oil in the car is in the sump, well below the oil filter, so an oil change wouldn't be necessary if you did remove the filter. There is a cup full of oil in the filter itself that will of course be lost. The only oil that remains above the filter is essentially the oil that goes to the (hydraulic) tappets and camshaft. Even if you do remove the filter, most of this oil will stay up there, as it will be relatively thick bearing in mind you will do this with the engine cold. Popping the filter back on while you mess with the alternator would reduce dribbling. So there will be only a small amount of oil lost that can be replaced with a top up.

Its a bit messy taking the filter off if you don't think you can get it out with the rad dismounted, but I would try one of these 2 first.