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other_mg
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone tell me how to adjust the handbrake on my ZS180. I have done a search but everyone pulls up threads with rear drums not discs?

Basically it has gotten slack over time and I have to pull it right up on a slope. I have NO WAY of getting the car off the ground and so hoped it was just tighteneing a bolt under the armrest?
 

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mg_zs
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Remove the rear ashtray and there is just about access to the adjuster. MAke sure you have about 7 "clicks" to the "on" position otherwise you risk dragging brakes
 

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other_mg
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
behind the rear ashtray are two bolts on a bracket though which runs two metal cords.

is it one of these or the single nut that sits further into the armrest at 90 degrees to the others?

ALso can you explain what you mean by 7 clicks - I understand you mean too tight and the brakes will be on permanently.

DO you mean 7 clicks pulling the handbrake up? whats the 'on' position?
 

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it's the big nut in the middle you adjust ...the one with some of the thread sticking out


it pulls on the two handbrake cables ...
if the thing looks cock eyed
then one of the handbrake linkages is seized on the calliper.

if it looks like this then don't adjust .....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/aboard_epsilon/rover 420/handbrake.jpg

come back and ask questions if it looks like this, when the hand brake is pulled on.

all the best.mark
 

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other_mg
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the replies guys and thanks for the really helpfull photo:beer:

With my handbrake on, mine isnt cock-eyed like the photo, it is straight, so I guess it hasnt seized.

So last question before I give it a go - do I tighten this nut with the handbrake on or the wheels chocked and handbrake off?

Also, I dont want to drag brakes, so how do I know when I have tightened it enough/too much?
 

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mgf
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thanks for the replies guys and thanks for the really helpfull photo:beer:

With my handbrake on, mine isnt cock-eyed like the photo, it is straight, so I guess it hasnt seized.

So last question before I give it a go - do I tighten this nut with the handbrake on or the wheels chocked and handbrake off?

Also, I dont want to drag brakes, so how do I know when I have tightened it enough/too much?
Normal route is to chock the front wheels so the car cannot roll, raise the back of the car so the rear wheels are off the ground (e.g. use axle stands).MAKE SURE THE CAR IS ON A FLAT SURFACE so it has no reason to roll off the stands. Take the handbrake off, then raise it 1 click. Now adjust the cable by tightening the nut until the wheels just bind on the brakes. Ensure they are free when you drop the handbrake the last click to the 'off' position. If the travel is still too long then either the cable is stretching (unlikely), or something else is wrong with your brakes.

-- Andrew
 

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Take both wheels off ..........chock front

Slack off completely adjuster in ash tray

Take pads out

"Lightly" tap linkages on top of callipers back and fourth whist spraying wd40 on them ..dont get any oil on the pads or discs....

The tiny screw that holds cables onto linkages will be rusty .....and probably bust if you try to remove it ........
Don't remove it ..untill you can be sure you wont break it or you have a replacement or you have alternative transport.

That's why I say tap first.

When they feel free, put splodge of copper grease on them ..........

reinstall pads

press footbrake a few times



Re-adjust handbrake ...


If this don't work .......you've got seized cable in the outer sheaves .......or you have to strip callipers down to unseize mechanism.

all the best.mark
 

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mg_zr
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I've adjusted the handbrake in my ZR to be on come the 2nd click. Hard on after the 4th. Providing the wheels run completely free when the handbrake is released, there is no need to have any more play than that. IMHO.
 
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