ABS Reluctor

2652 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Aries1604, Oct 8, 2010

Tim.

Discussion Starter · Sep 22, 2010

Had the ABS light on, which I traced to a sticking rear calliper piston. That's fixed now.

When looking for the problem I found a small break in the NSF reluctor ring. It has opened up less than 20 thou and seems to be giving no issues (yet). It looks a bore to change the CV joint and I'm thinking of putting a spot of glue in an attempt to hold it off for a while.

Has anyone else successfully done this, I think the issue is going to be getting it clean enough for the glue to work.

Oh and is the 180 CV any different to the 120.

Ta

Tim.

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Aries1604

· #2 · Sep 22, 2010

Tim. said:
Had the ABS light on, which I traced to a sticking rear caliper piston. That's fixed now.

When looking for the problem I found a small break in the NSF reluctor ring. It has opened up less than 20 thou and seems to be giving no issues (yet). It looks a bore to change the CV joint and I'm thinking of putting a spot of glue in an attempt to hold it off for a while.

Has anyone else successfully done this, I think the issue is going to be getting it clean enough for the glue to work.

Oh and is the 180 CV any different to the 120.

Ta

Tim.

My opinion is that the split in your NSF reluctor ring was, and still is, the cause of the ABS light.
I have had a sticking rear cylinder and it did not give any indication via the ABS system but a split ring on the front did, by way of producing an intermittent clicking noise from the ABS pump.

It is in fact as easy to change the CV joint as it is to change the reluctor ring. The procedure is very similar except when fitting the ring you have to remove all residual corrosion from the surface of the CV joint before fitting the new ring.

Don't see that filling the gap in the ring with glue will serve any useful purpose.

Oh, and from the information I have, the 180 shares it's CV joints with the 2.0L diesels, 2.0L 4 pot petrol, and all KV6 engined 45/MG.

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Tim.

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 22, 2010

Thanks for your reply.

My intention in applying glue is not to fill the gap, rather to stop it getting any bigger and give myself a couple of weeks before I can replace it.

The ABS light has been on over the last two weeks and has been consistently lighting within a minute of setting off. I understand what you are saying about the calliper piston, it's difficult to fathom. However, rebuilding the calliper is the only thing I did apart from bleeding and I haven't seen the light since. Perhaps it was so sticky as to not move when the return pump activated. :dunno:

Your comments on cleaning up the external corrosion is noted. Fortunately I'm rather good at that.
This was my last tangle with the useless CV cups on the front of my MGF Trophy (no ABS)

Before ....

And after ...

See less See more

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Southside

· #4 · Sep 22, 2010

Cracked relutor rings very rarely illuminate the abs light. I've had 3 go on me now and not once has the light come on.

The bigger the crack gets the more often the a.b.s will kick in for no reason. The first one that went on me cracked in a big way, huge gap and the a.b.s was kicking in everytime i braked. The 2nd one was like yours, only a very small crack and the a.b.s only kicked in once over a 500 mile period.

I just found it easier to change the complete CV to be honest. As they're only £15 on ebay with the reluctor ring ready fitted and a new gaitor.

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Aries1604

· #5 · Sep 22, 2010

Tim. said:
Before ....

And after ...

Err, mmmm, before and after ? , that's two different parts ?. or you you were over energetic with the emery paper. :lol:

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Tim.

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 22, 2010

Southside said:
.... I just found it easier to change the complete CV to be honest. As they're only £15 on ebay with the reluctor ring ready fitted and a new gaitor.

Okies - thanks, sounds like a plan.

Aries1604 said:
....or you you were over energetic with the emery paper. :lol:

:rofl: Yes but the rust has gone

MGR in their infinite wisdom fitted the same stub shaft to front and rear, of course only the rear is driven, so the front CV cup is redundant and represents about 1 1/2 lb of unsprung weight on each wheel - which just had to go. I'm fortunate to have a lathe in my garage.

Soooo - Do we all think I'm just flying a kite hoping to temporarily glue the reluctor ring to stop it spreading.
.

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Aries1604

· #7 · Sep 22, 2010

Tim. said:
Soooo - Do we all think I'm just flying a kite hoping to temporarily glue the reluctor ring to stop it spreading.
.

Yep, indeed.
Won't stop it spreading, although if it is loose it may stop it coming off the CV joint as a temporary fix.

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shaunydub

· #8 · Oct 7, 2010

I have this Reluctor ring issue.
It has been ticking for a while but I never have had an issue with ABS coming on like other people.
Is it dangerous or can I leave it for a while - the car just passed the mot and they found the ring cracked when they changed the CV boots which were advisory.

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Aries1604

· #9 · Oct 8, 2010

shaunydub said:
I have this Reluctor ring issue.
It has been ticking for a while but I never have had an issue with ABS coming on like other people.
Is it dangerous or can I leave it for a while - the car just passed the mot and they found the ring cracked when they changed the CV boots which were advisory.

When mine was split it only ticked, sometimes, when below a speed of about 20/25 mph, no other effects. Would guess the effects it generates depends on how big the gap is.
At the time I did investigate the problem on the net, and found at the time that it would not cause an MOT failure, but may be an advisory if the tester noticed it.
It is not dangerous to 'leave it for a while' but I am surprised that whoever did your CV boots did not do the ring at the same time even if it had to be a secondhand one off an old joint ?.

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