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97 BRG MGF. 2009 SKODA SUPERB.
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I have now completed the repair after a lot of hassle, so I can add a "do not do what I did" post + I NOW know what is accessed from the hole circled in RED on my previous post, and (hopefully) what was rattling inside my door on rough roads and whenever I closed the drivers door.

Firstly: the don't do THIS:
I wiggled the window back into (what I believed) was the right position, ready for bolting-up to the lifting mechanism. That mechanism has to be about half-lowered to give room to get the black plastic stop on the glass behind & below the stop fixed to the inner door.

Having raised the assembly carefully back to where the two holes (green in the picture) allow access, I Moved the window fully forward into the short groove, which I WRONGLY assumed would put the glass in the "right" position fore-and-aft.

I then fully tightened (BAD MISTAKE) the bolts, tried lowering the window (no problem), then tried raising it carefully.

The "carefully" bit saved me. There must be some "guide groove" or similar obstruction near the hinge-end of the door. I had clearly adjusted/positioned the glass too far forward, and it started to "rear-up" at the back, while NOT moving up at the front, as I tried to raise the glass to it's closed (fully-up) position.

I then had to lower the assembly again until could line-up each bolt with a point of access lower down.

Before I replaced the glass, I had lubricated all joints and (visible) guide rail, and while doing this, I noticed a bolt and photographed it:
View attachment 138390

I know that I had never undone any bolt of that size in the door, and I had noticed a loud rattle on any bumpy roads, so I am sure these parts (bolt, blue plastic sheath, which should wrap around bottom edge of glass and the out-of-focus grey lump, which was actually the component below), had been rattling around in the bottom of the door since I bought the car. I have a servicing invoice (November 2005 vintage) from the Rover Dealer who sold the car in 2002 which lists, amongst other standard servicing jobs: "lubricate window channels, OS". I suspect that they sort-of did this job, but did not bother/forgot to re-attach the bolt, blue plastic sheath this rear guide assembly.
View attachment 138393

These parts re-assembled and fitted are shown below. The window now glides fully up and down smoothly, and Hopefully, no more rattling noises from the driver's door!
View attachment 138394

With hindsight, I should have searched and read the workshop manual, as well as searching this site for help. Lesson learned:whistle:
Hi, a bit concerned about the rust in the one picture showing the bolt. Is the area sound? I have a rattle in the doors on my F when I close them, I've had both cards off and had to reattach window stop on one and adjust high on the other. But as far as I could see there was nothing loose, so I just greased up the mechanism and put it back together. Doors still rattle when I close them so maybe its something I will have to live with. Regards. D4KGP.
 

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97 BRG MGF. 2009 SKODA SUPERB.
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418 Posts
Believe it or not, the brown areas are some kind of rust-inhibiting wax or thick grease (possibly very old Waxoyl??), NOT rust. The Blue plastic sheath was stuck on this grease to the outer skin of the door, and one side of the heavy casting which forms the guide was very stick with this greasy stuff, so I cleaned it, carefully, leaving grease on the sliding surfaces.

When I first took off the door card to try to find the source of rattle, (when it did not occur to me to search for large lumps of metal on the bottom of the door), I was also intending to inject Waxoyl, but decided that the job had already been done. See my comment June 27 2021 under my Profile, which reads:

"2 Months in to TF ownership and I have learned a lot from the MG-Rover Forum. The men at Longbridge seemed to have already sprayed waxoyl or similar waxy stuff into bottom part of door, so no signs of rust there!"


I also sprayed waxoyl into the sills, but took pictures first, to show a future buyer how good those areas were in 2021.
View attachment 138397
Rear wheel arch above, inside sill below
View attachment 138399

There seemed to be traces of the Waxoyl-like stuff in there, but to my mind, not nearly enough or in the right places, so those areas are now well Waxoyled.
Hi thanks for your reply, glad to hear that its not rust. I sprayed some German stuff like Waxoyl into most of the cavities on my 97F, time will tell if its any good but seemed ok when applied. Your cavities look great! Regards. D4KGP.
 
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