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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi all.
got a few questions after having my 214mk2 a couple of weeks now.

When i go over 70 there is ALOT of wind noise from the front passenger door, like the window is open abit, but it isnt. anyone got any idea of how to stop it?

also between 60 and 70mph the car vibrates quite alot but gets better as you got past 70+ is this the tracking or the balencing or both? the vibration is through the whole car not just the steering wheel.

what milage should the cambelt be done mine is almost at 70k and i cant find anything in the history that says it has been done (surprising considering the old man who had it before me threw money at it for silly little things all the time)

i think that is about it for now

thanks in advance
rob
 

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Cambelt is due now (well at something like 60k so that should be your first priority unless it has already been done e.g. a headgasket failure etc etc.).

Get the wheels balanced and check that the tyres are actually round. (I actually had 2 egg shaped ones on my wedge).

foir wind noise check the rubber boot that connects the door to the wing mirror. if it has come off or split that could account for some noise in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok thanks m8.


cant beleive the cam belt hasnt been done. just looked through the history, it was serviced at 59k and 65k and it wasnt done :eek:
 

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This should be it's second cambelt change really.

60k or 5 years is the limit. So if your's is a 95 car it should have been done in 2000 regardless of mileage and again this year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
:( thats no good then, looks like my car is staying still till it is doen then.

i cant see it in the history anywhere at all and i have every recipe since new.

is it a easy diy job? my girlfriends dad is offering to do it but i dont want him to brake anything, even though he is pretty good at this stuff.
 

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If he is handy with some tools and done one before on another car, then with the aid of a haynes manual, he should be fine.
 
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Wheel wobble could be tracking or balancing. Whilst it is normally the balance, these cars are VERY sensitive to being out of true on the tracking and this can cause wobble.

If in doubt, cambelt should be done as a precaution.

Wind noise may be down to a dodgy door seal or the door being slightly out of adjustment.
 

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vibration will almost certainly be wheel balancing,get em done b4 they hammer ur wheel bearings 2 bits,cambelt make sure he gets the timing and tension right,doing it wrong is worse than not doing it,mark it up at tdc compression stroke b4 removing belt
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
how much does it cost on average to get the cambelt done at an idependant or at a dealer?

thanks
rob
 

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While your changing the belt, you must also change the water pump (£33) and coolant. Water pumps tend to fail at about this time. The labour cost is the same (or less thatn £10 extra in my opinion) for both jobs and the new water pump will save you form a HGF.
Total labour at my local garage was £120
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
biryets said:
While your changing the belt, you must also change the water pump (£33) and coolant. Water pumps tend to fail at about this time. The labour cost is the same (or less thatn £10 extra in my opinion) for both jobs and the new water pump will save you form a HGF.
Total labour at my local garage was £120
thanks for letting me know about the water pump. i will ring a few places tomorrow. see if i can find a rover speciallist and i'll see how much the main dealer charges :-s
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
biryets said:
While your changing the belt, you must also change the water pump (£33) and coolant. Water pumps tend to fail at about this time. The labour cost is the same (or less thatn £10 extra in my opinion) for both jobs and the new water pump will save you form a HGF.
Total labour at my local garage was £120
what would expect the cost to be for a cambelt and water pump change?

i got several quotes today ranging from £185-£250

£185 with me suppling my own cambelt

£192 for their own "kit". cambelt, tensioner and pump.

a couple of others in between

£250 for cambelt and pump at james edwards rover.

i was very shocked at the price, was expecting sub £150 to be honest. think i am going to get my girlfriends dad to do it afterall.
 

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DEViANCE said:
what would expect the cost to be for a cambelt and water pump change?

i got several quotes today ranging from £185-£250

£185 with me suppling my own cambelt

£192 for their own "kit". cambelt, tensioner and pump.

a couple of others in between

£250 for cambelt and pump at james edwards rover.

i was very shocked at the price, was expecting sub £150 to be honest. think i am going to get my girlfriends dad to do it afterall.

Definitely let the gf's dad do it. Perhaps you should offer to "help". It would allow you to learn something about the car.

When was it last serviced?. You are going to be doing the coolant anyway, if it was more than 4-5000 miles or 3 months ago, you may as well do a service (plugs, (leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm if they are more than 2 years old), oil, oil filter, fuel filter and air filter.)

It will cost initially but the investment would be worth it.

Get the tyres checked, it could be anything from a dodgy tyre (in the truck business it's known as loose wheel syndrome) to being out of balance,a buckled wheel or tracking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i will offer to help(watch) and see what i can learn about the k-series. i got pretty good with the a-series with my old metro.

last was sevice about 4k ago so i'll check everything like that when we are working on it, it is running really well tho so i cant see it needing much.

the tyres havent been changed for a while, they where rotated about 12months ago so will probably need doing, am going to wait till i find some nice alloys for it first.

i will sort the balencing/tracking out on saturday, there is a really good wheel place not far from here so i'll take it too them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
another question!


what is with the petrol filler! it has some sort of valve on it so when the petrol pump goes into it it doesnt spray back or somthing...
BUT
all it does is make it take ages to fill up when you press the handle fully it just clicks off, and it does it nearly every way you press the handle, you have to get it just right. it takes ages, is there a trick to it or somthing?

cheers
rob
 

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DEViANCE said:
another question!


what is with the petrol filler! it has some sort of valve on it so when the petrol pump goes into it it doesnt spray back or somthing...
BUT
all it does is make it take ages to fill up when you press the handle fully it just clicks off, and it does it nearly every way you press the handle, you have to get it just right. it takes ages, is there a trick to it or somthing?

cheers
rob

try not pushin the pump all the way in. its clicking because the air pressure builds up so you need to leave a gap for the air to escape as fast as the petrol is going in!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
jonR200 said:
try not pushin the pump all the way in. its clicking because the air pressure builds up so you need to leave a gap for the air to escape as fast as the petrol is going in!
i am sure i have tried that but i'll give it another go next time. took me about 15mins to put 25quid in :p
 

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No you aren't supposed to leave a gap for the air to escape, (that is what the carbon cannister under the bonnet is for). What I find helps is turning the nozzle so it is pointing about 90-45 degrees away from vertical. I still can't press the trigger fully but it doesn't take that long to fill it up.
 

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The smaller diameter hole used for unleaded was designed to stop people putting leaded petrol in however the flap is there to seal the tank more effectively when filling the car (to comply with emissions regulations), and also helps to prevent splash back.
 
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