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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, perhaps this is merely a reminder - but still wothwhile noting.......

Last weekend I had a lovely morning with my now retired baby, giving her a good dose of waxoyl and checking the fluids etc. As ever it hasn't lost so much of a drop of anything. Even though we have had a good dry spell recently I still removed the covering panels to inspect the middle plenum more out of curiosity, and was rather susprised to see that the drain was blocked solid. A quick rodding through with an old car arial and a cane and it was clear again.

I have also received a few emails recently via the club from non-members asking about the ECU and if it is recoverable after being drowned. This has been done by others before but it's really down to luck more than anything else.

Overall it just goes to show that if there is one area you should be vigilant about it is this one. Keep 'em clear fellow members!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for reminding me - they're with a friendly trimer who has been avoiding me recently. I must pop round and find out what he's up to with them because if I get another one soon then I will be having some madcap ideas on modifying it - and those seats are part of the grand plan........

Tell you what though - she may be retired but when she comes out to play, it's like dancing with your first love all over again!

Anyway, back on topic :lol:
 

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As this has cropped up again a reminder for the newbies.

There is a mod that should be done on both outer drain tubes they need to be removed and the bottoms cut off at 45 degrees to increase the size of the opening and improve the chance of stuff passing through they also need regular poking with a stick, no thicker than a pencil or you could push the drains right through and then you have to take the wheel liners off to retrieve them.
 

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has anyone ever tried to recover ecu by using a ultrasonic PCB Bath. my mate used to sort everyones water/beer damaged mobile phones using one. good sucess rate. just a thought.
 

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Keith Alexander said:
As this has cropped up again a reminder for the newbies.

There is a mod that should be done on both outer drain tubes they need to be removed and the bottoms cut off at 45 degrees to increase the size of the opening and improve the chance of stuff passing through they also need regular poking with a stick, no thicker than a pencil or you could push the drains right through and then you have to take the wheel liners off to retrieve them.
This is very important but the all important drain is the centre one! If the centre drain blocks, the ecu WILL get wet with time. The outers merely reduce the fill time of the plenum.
 

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REVOL said:
has anyone ever tried to recover ecu by using a ultrasonic PCB Bath. my mate used to sort everyones water/beer damaged mobile phones using one. good sucess rate. just a thought.
I have wondered about that in the past you know.
 

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MattL said:
This is very important but the all important drain is the centre one! If the centre drain blocks, the ecu WILL get wet with time. The outers merely reduce the fill time of the plenum.
Yep good point, wasn't it Rukka who said he found a Sycamore had germinated if the leaf mold around his centr drain?

The centre one takes a bit of dismantling to get to, but does need checking at least once ayear in the winter after the autumn leaves have fallen is probably the best time to do it, and then giving the opening under the car a poke occasionally through the rest of the year will keep it clear.
 

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REVOL said:
has anyone ever tried to recover ecu by using a ultrasonic PCB Bath. my mate used to sort everyones water/beer damaged mobile phones using one. good sucess rate. just a thought.
If contaminated by clean water drying it out should be sufficient to tell if it has died or not but if contaminated by dirt oil etc then an ultrasonice bath would be sensible assuming the PCB is bare, I would expect it to be coated

We used to seal everything for flight computers with either Polyurathane or Humiseal then during burn in testing the unit would be Frozen -20 and then rapidly heated to around 70 degrees the unit would have to continue to function during the wet part of the defrost stage but obvioulsy that is not the same as being immeresed in water that will led to eventual shorts and componet failure

With properly sealed electronics the weak point where water could cause a problem would be the actual connector and the circuits directly attached to the connectors
 

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For those of you who have not done the centre drain, it is not a difficult job to do, even if you are mechanical virgins. A cross head and slotted screw driver is all you require plus something to poke the drains clear. I used a broken garden cane, which was just the right diameter.

The data sheet is perfect for descibing what needs to be done. Just be careful taking out the windscreen lower trim clips, as they can ping out if you are not careful.

Put the crevice tool on your hoover and you can get all the dry leaves and dead flies out.
 

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I have a new ZTT which shouldn't have this problem yet, but with a spare 1/2 hour before the F1 Qualifying, I thought it might be useful to work through the Technical Information Documents TID-001 & 2, in order to familiarise myself with the layout.
Whilst TID-2 para 5 suggests sliding the plenum water shield, mine would NOT move. I had to remove 4 'plugs' from the lower screen cover in order to lift it the shield out. It had been wrongly fitted during build as the rear clips were not over the lip, still it wouldn't move, so I gave the proverbial yank out and it came away. The seal was torn at the front and further investigation showed that it had been caught on a protruding bolt, which pokes into the seal, evidenced by 'witness marks' in the seal. I slackened this to make reinsertion easier. Nothing was in the drain tubes but I do now know where to look! Putting the water shield back in was a doddle with the screw withdrawn. I have greased the seal and repaired the tear, also have screwed the errant bolt back, painted it RED to remind myself for next time. It does perform a function in keeping panels together but in my opinion is in the wrong place. Any Comments?
Martin
 

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I too found the rubber seal torn after removal. Slackening the offending screw before re-insertion was essential to any easy fit.
Next time it will be partially removed before starting the job. I also could not unscrew the front plenum cover fixing scrivet. My resolution was to cut the head off, I have not bothered to replace it as the front is held firmly in place by the sealing rubber and therefore is entirely unnecessary.

Regards

MM
 

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As new as a newbie can be, but chuffed with the 75 tourer I picked up last week have started to read through the posts. Notice Time Searcher refers to
Technical Information Documents. Can someone explain what the TIDs are and how I can get a hold of the relevant ones for the tourer.

Thanks
Dave
 
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