[Rob_R200]

I've noticed the last few times i've used the car (When its been running for over 20 mins each time, so it would be at fully Running temp) The temp gauge stays less than 1/4 of the way up regardless of sitting standstill/moving.

Last week & before, it went upto just under the half mark and flucturated a-bit (never went over the halfway though)

Anything wrong?

 

[cjmillsnun]

I've noticed the last few times i've used the car (When its been running for over 20 mins each time, so it would be at fully Running temp) The temp gauge stays less than 1/4 of the way up regardless of sitting standstill/moving.

Last week & before, it went upto just under the half mark and flucturated a-bit (never went over the halfway though)

Anything wrong?

At a guess your thermostat is stuck open.

 

[Rob_R200]

so what damage will/does that do ?

 

[cjmillsnun]

so what damage will/does that do ?

Car is overcooling, therefore will be overfuelling (like driving a carb car with the choke partially out). This can knacker the cat and the lambda sensor.

Thermostat is uaually less than £30 and is very easy to change on the T series.

 

[Rob_R200]

I just put a new Lambda on it the other week too :guns2: Cheers for ya help

 

[Rob_R200]

OK well the car was fine after fitting the new Lambda sensor, now it's starting to play up again around 2 weeks after fitting the new Lambda.

I'm wondering if it's a Faulty Thermostat overcooling the engine, and the exhaust Emissions coming out differenty to what they should be and giving the Lambda faulse info & then sending the info to the ECU and causing the engine revv's to die/drop??????

Any info appreciated.

 

[Steve220]

Thermostat is uaually less than £30 and is very easy to change on the T series.

:err: its MUCH less than that, try £4 for a new stat.

Rob - just change the stat. its at the front of the cylinder head to the right as you look at it. Drain a bit of the coolant, remove the 2 bolts off the top, remove, replace and you're done. About a 10 minute job really. If the car is running cool, it will indeed cause your MPG to go up.
Steve

 

[rw9zt]

Could it possibly be a faulty engine management temp. sensor? I know on some of the later models it is a combined sensor which also works the gauge.

If it is not working properly, it may be telling the ECU the engine is colder than it actually is (along with the reading on the gauge), possibly causing the ECU to overfuel the engine. Worth a look, as they should be less than a tenner new from a motor factor and you don't want to damage the Cat and O2 sensor.

 

[Rob_R200]

Could it possibly be a faulty engine management temp. sensor? I know on some of the later models it is a combined sensor which also works the gauge.

I've allready Replaced the Coolant Temp sensor mate, made no difference.

 

[rw9zt]

Must be the 'stat then, as said before you're only looking at approx £5 from a factors.

 

[Dr Dave]

Aslong as the car doesn't have a/c, it's a cheap and easy fix.

 

[Rob_R200]

Got one from halfrauds for just under £6, fitted it and took it for a spin to get some heat into it. The Gauge still flucturated a bit. Didn't seem to play up but then having said, it had been alright for most of today except only when starting it for the first journey this morn.
My dad tested the old one, it seemed to be opening and closing alright

So I guess 2moro morn ill take her out and see what happens!

 

[Dr Dave]

Did he test it with a thermometer aswell?

 

[Rob_R200]

nah we didnt, shall I?

 

[Dr Dave]

Don't bother now, but you should observe the temperature at which the thermostat begins to open...

 

[Rob_R200]

well the old 'stat had 88 degres on it, the new one is slightlky lower, bout 83 or 84 I think. Had to get the 'Turbo T series one, didnt do the NASP but was told they are same.

Do you think it could be the cause of the problem then Major?
Also, was it right before when starting the car from cold to take around 5 mins of running/driving the car for the temp gauge to even lift off the bottom?

Ta

 

[Dr Dave]

It's a known problem and a cheap one to fix - basically a good place to start.

 

[Rob_R200]

Right well i've just driven back from the G/F's house and im really Fncked off to say the least! I'm beggining to loose my rag with this heap of sh!t! :devil:

Engine stone cold, Coming back, drove for around 2 1/2 mins, clutch in for a roundabout the revvs completely die then all of a sudden jump back up again. Happened 4 times. It dies all of a sudden then sumthing just REALLY quickly the revvs just jump back up. :sick2:

Yesterday morn, ran REALLY rough when cold drove it down the road,the Revv's died after clutch in then revved upto around 1500, then died, then back upto 1500 then idled back to normal having not touched the throttle after putting the clutch in.
I mean we've spent enough on this car as it is trying to solve this problem, and now it's still fecking around. What do I do!?!

 

[Rob_R200]

To add to the above post, not sure if this is related or anyting but recently (last cupla weeks really) After switching the engine off I hear a few clicking/ticking noises for a few seconds coming from the engine. When i turned it off today, My dad said it sounded like it was coming from around the Fuel Filter. This hasn't been changed since we've had the car around 3 1/4 yrs now.

Could it be Air-locked or sumit??

 

[rw9zt]

Does he mean the oil filter? the fuel filter will probably be in the tank.

Don't replace an 88 degree thermostat with an 82 degree one, it will seriously affect the performance of the car. If it is meant to have an 88 degree stat, replace it with an 88 degree one. It will almost certainly say the correct operating temp. on the body of thermostat.