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rover_45
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All. Have a couple of problems one electrical and one to do with the front wheels, will leave the electrical problem to another time as the wheel problem is more urgent. I notice a small squeal coming from the front nearside ( I think !!!!) wheel and when i apply just a tiny amount of pressure on the brake pedal or if I turn the stearing just a tad it goes away but comes back and gradually gets worse and it starts to sound like a dry bearing screatch, and I have found the wheel area to be extremely warm. Any help would be useful.
P.S.
Has anyone experienced while applying the brakes a crunching sound as if gears were trying to engage if I lift my foot off then apply it again it is ok, I was told this could be the sensor for the ABS catching on the "castleated nut " .Again any help would be useful.
Sorry for the long winded story !!!!!
Bill
 

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Hi All. Have a couple of problems one electrical and one to do with the front wheels, will leave the electrical problem to another time as the wheel problem is more urgent. I notice a small squeal coming from the front nearside ( I think !!!!) wheel and when i apply just a tiny amount of pressure on the brake pedal or if I turn the stearing just a tad it goes away but comes back and gradually gets worse and it starts to sound like a dry bearing screatch, and I have found the wheel area to be extremely warm. Any help would be useful.
P.S.
Has anyone experienced while applying the brakes a crunching sound as if gears were trying to engage if I lift my foot off then apply it again it is ok, I was told this could be the sensor for the ABS catching on the "castleated nut " .Again any help would be useful.
Sorry for the long winded story !!!!!
Bill
Are your front brake pads low ??? The rear front pads have a metal strip wear indicator on them that scrapes along the disc to warn you to change your pads when they get low.
It makes a scraping screeching metal on metal sound.

I will try to find a pic to show you.



Mark.
 

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As well as if the brake pads are low, screeching can also occur if there is not enough grease behind the pad (copper grease often used on assembly to silence the screech, but avoid getting it onto the disk or pad friction surfaces at all costs).

The fact that your wheel is getting warm suggests that the brake is coming on even when it shouldn't. I had this on my ZR, and it was one of the caliper sliding pins that had seized in place, which was clamping the pad against the disk all the time, causing a lot of brake dust, wheel warming up, and wasted fuel as well. To check the pins is not too hard if you have a half decent tool kit, Haynes manual and a torque wrench. The caliper needs partially removing, which is held on by a couple of bolts, and then bolts holding the sliding pins in place undone, and the pins checked to see whether they are seized or not.

As for the crunchy noise, it sounds like one of the ABS reluctor rings has split, a common problem on cars after about 2000 when they are a few years old. If it does it mainly when breaking reasonably firmly at low speeds then this is probably the cause, and the ABS light should not come on if these are at fault. You can check these by jacking up the car, supporting on axle stands, and having a look inside the wheel at the brake assembly. You should see a metal ring around the hub, with lots of teeth in it. Spin the wheel and look for a crack in the ring, or teeth missing (or big chunk of dirt if lucky), then check the other side.

Also check the rings on the back end if you feel inclined, I think these are less likely to go, and you will need to take the wheels off, and you might need to look very carefully to see the rings, as they are well hidden on some cars, and might even have to remove the brake drum if yours has them fitted and not disks.

The front rings can be bought as a separate piece, or as part of a whole new CV joint, a search should reveal where from. IT would probably take a garage less than an hour each side to fit new rings on the front .As for the rears, I'm not sure how easy they are to get hold of or fit.
 

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rover_45
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cheers guys. for your quick reply. I took the nearside wheel off and took the caliper off the pads are fine and the reluctor is ok, When i stripped it all down i noticed the metal disc that sits in the piston was dry and also the pads are very tight when the top and bottom springs are fitted back in ,so at the moment I have left the metal disc and the springs out and will give the car a good run for the rest of today to see what happens ( I have got High temp. grease coming from my work so I will give the disc a smear of grease later) .Also I will check OFF side wheel a.s.a.p.
Thanks again
 

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I think the pads are meant to be tight with the springs in, but they can still move okay when they need to when driving.

Did you check whether the sliding pins are seized? If they are, some CV grease or mechanical brake grease on them after a cleanup of them and their bores might solve the problem.
 

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rover_45
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Tim ,do you mean the rubber bits that the caliper bolts (12/11 mm) go into ,they push in and out easily and seem to be ok.
 

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Yes, I meant those, but the metal pins the rubber seals sit over need to be free to move as well. If they push in and pull out okay then that's good. If you still have problems you might want to remove them and check that the pins have no polished areas with no grease on them, as they might be loose when the brakes are in bits, but when under load and heat they could soon bind.

To remove the pins, carefully run a very small slot screwdriver under the seal while pulling gently in the pin, to free them, and make sure the seals are a snug fit once back in place, otherwise dirt and water can get in, causing problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is great, getting information as quick as this. Will do as you say on Sunday ( First chance i will have ). But once again a big thank you to all and I will let you know what I find.
Bill
 

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Cheers guys. for your quick reply. I took the nearside wheel off and took the caliper off the pads are fine and the reluctor is ok, When i stripped it all down i noticed the metal disc that sits in the piston was dry and also the pads are very tight when the top and bottom springs are fitted back in ,so at the moment I have left the metal disc and the springs out and will give the car a good run for the rest of today to see what happens ( I have got High temp. grease coming from my work so I will give the disc a smear of grease later) .Also I will check OFF side wheel a.s.a.p.
Thanks again
I wouldnt drive without the springs on the pads for long, they are there to stop the pads flloating around. Driving without the anti-squeal insert for the piston wont do any harm, just may make your brakes squeal.

Mark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cheers guys have put it back together and while i was there greased the rubber cupped pins so I'm off to Glasgow tomorrow this will give it a good test.
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Hi again well back safe and sound from Glasgow but noise is still there I think it must be a sticky cylinder as one minute it is there and the next it has gone . I found the squeak there as I pulled the stearing to the right a bit and then it got steadily worse but if I braked gently and took my foot off the brake slowly, it seemed to disappear (Sometimes) Going to check the off side wheel tomorrow and will let you know what I find.
Bill
 

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Hi again well back safe and sound from Glasgow but noise is still there I think it must be a sticky cylinder as one minute it is there and the next it has gone . I found the squeak there as I pulled the stearing to the right a bit and then it got steadily worse but if I braked gently and took my foot off the brake slowly, it seemed to disappear (Sometimes) Going to check the off side wheel tomorrow and will let you know what I find.
Bill
The wear indicators scrape on corners and roundabouts as the hub flexes on its bearings under load. Make sue you remove the rear pad on the offside and look at the face of the indicator strip. If shiny silver it has been rubbing the disc.

Mark.
 
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