Check the fuses for engine management and the immobiliser, (as there have been problems in the past).
Then check for a spark during cranking, (remove the main HT lead from the coil and place near the engine - during cranking you should get strong regular spark that'll jump 10-20mm. If there is no spark then check the wiring for the crank sensor, and check the alarm LED isn't flashing or permenantly on. If there is a spark then replace the lead and remove the spark plugs. Attach them to their leads and place the metal spark plug body on the engine. Again crank the engine and you should get a strong regular spark from each plug. If you don't get any sparks then the rotor arm has most likely failed or the spring in the distributor cap.

If you are getting sparks them move onto checking the fuel system, check there is fuel pressure in the fuel rail. wrap some rag around the fuel filter union and loosen it with the igntion off. Fuel should spray/seep out under pressure. If there is no pressure here then suspect the fuel pump or the wiring/relay for it.

 

Thank you!

Thank you very much for your comprehensive check procedure E_T_V. It is exactly what I was looking for. It is very kind of you to take the time and trouble to write it out for me.
I have not been well enough to go out today (as is frequently the case sadly) but I will report back as soon as I am able to try to get the car going.
There is one thing I am a little worried about. I am not 100% sure that the garage disabled the alarm/immobiliser when they came out and freed the immobiliser earlier in the year; so if I take the fuses out for the engine management and the immobiliser would that then require the security code being re-entered as the power will have been cut to them? As I said I do not know the security code and there appears to be no record of it anywhere. The ex-Rover dealer tried and some kind person on here to no avail. It appears my VIN was entered incorrectly for the records when it was first entered so there is no possibility of finding it now.

Trust you had a good day.

Best regards,

Matt

 

Well a trip to a dealer could get you the code when they put it on there T4 diagnostic machine.

E_T_V knows his stuff and nodoubt what he;s told you to check will either find the underline fault or fix it.

As for the immobliser. At the current time is the LED between the tacho and speedo lit up or not. If not then do not touch the fuse for it as that will get it on and as you say no code or fob you will be stuck.

 

codes only go back 8 - 10 yrs now 0n mg site, this does not sound like alarm fault , back to basics.. overide code can be got from t4 never works when implemented thou , old cars that is , micro switches sieze up.

 

I know what you mean. This age of car would also have the 3 pin connector under the bonnet. Most dealers dont even have a working cable for them now.

 

Thank you very much for confirming my fears Sejin26.

The LED is not lit at the moment, so I thought the present non-starting is not immobiliser related.

I had better leave out the fuse checking part then!

NB I suppose if I ever have to remove the car battery I had better connect another before I take the present one off so there is a continual powering of the ECU immobiliser !

Best regards,

Matt

 

You can put a memory saver in the circuit. Your cigarette lighter is probably dead without key in ignition, so you hard-wire it to the battery.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DRAPER-COMPUT...QitemZ280131782576QQihZ018QQcategoryZ63918QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

 

micro check ! feeling age now...

 

Ah yes probey, I remember now. The Rover records for cars my age have been wiped. The cars have obviously lasted longer than they thought they would *lol*.
Yes, it looks like I will have to go through the tried and tested electrics/fuel checking routine. I think it is the micro switch in the driver's door that is faulty. I disconnected the wire loom to the door when I had the immobiliser jammed on fault & the car has run OK since.
It is a good few decades since I did car repairs with regularity! Had a Spitfire Mk II in my youth. The main problem with that was I had to go down the Scappy once a month to change the gear box. At least it came out inside the car so it was an easy job. None of all the electronics to go wrong in those days!

Thank you so much for the link to the memory saver BIGGUNS. Now that is a great investment for 11.43!!! I will certainly be getting one of those to avoid immobiliser problems when disconnecting the car battery in the future.

Thank you all once again for your replies. They are all VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.

It is great to have this fantastic forum with such helpful and enthusiastic Rover fans.

Best regards,

Matt