OK I have discovered that I'll need...

Steering arm nut
Lower ball joint nut
Breaker taper joint using tool 18G 1584 (regular ball joint splitter)

Drive shaft removal
Tool 18G 1578

Seal replacement
Locator Tool 18G 134 and replacer tool 18G 134BD

Are the drive shaft remover and seal replacement tools readily available from a motor factor?

What is the circlip size at the end of the drive shaft?

 

Drain the gearbox

Seperate track rod ends from hubs

Undo drop links from botom suspension arms and arms from chassis, this will give you enough play to remove inner cv's.

Prise out inner cv's

Lever out oil seals with screwdriver taking note of whether the seals are flush with the casing or not.

Press in new seals with a piece of wood and hammer making sure they go in evenly. This is assuming the face of the seal is flat. If it has a lip on it you will need a hole in the wood to go over the lip.

Reassemble

Allow about 3 hrs

Don't forget to refill the gearbox!

 

You beat me to it!

The only special tool you need is a ball joint splitter for the track rod ends.

The driveshafts can be prised off with a couple of large screwdrivers or a small jemmy which is what I use.

 

Cheers for the replies. I do have some info but often the manuals exaggerate what one has to do. I'd rather find out before I start!

So I needn't worry about replacing the circlip?

 

Some people say you should but I never do, its only a wire ring and can be a bit tricky getting it in position when pushing the driveshaft back in. You'll see what I mean when you come to do it.

 

So it is obvious when the shaft is located properly? It wouldn't fool you in to thinking that it is in place when it is not?

Cheers