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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just bought a 1998 rover sterling (what a lot of car) i noticed the abs light did not come on with ignition i took out dash today and the bulb and holder were missing put in new bulb put it all back together turned on ignition and light is on all the time i worked on a n reg 820sli a few years ago and found out via the rover 800 web pages how to read fault codes by shorting out two wires under the steering column turned out a faulty wheel sensor but that light only came on when driving. back to this one does anybody know of a way to read fault codes without having a diagnostic tester does the light stay on if a wheel sensor is defective or is more of module trouble any help will be greatly apprieciated
 
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There is every likelihood that one of the sensors is faulty. They should all have a resistance of about 1600kOhms across the terminals (yellow plug in the engine bay for fronts, not sure on rears where the plug is).

It`s usually the fronts that cause the trouble because they flex when the steering wheel is turned.
 

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My 98 Sterling coupe had the same problem, and I found I had a non working system out the same way as you, because some "professional" had removed the light bulb.

I have had a number of these vehicles (800's) over the years and it is usually always the front sensor that goes, because of heat and the environment is not kind to sensors in the region of the brake caliper. Just unplug the white or yellow plug on each sensor just inside the inner wing and check the resistance across the two terminals in the plug. Alternatively I jacked the front of the car up and spun each wheel by hand with the multimeter leads installed in the plug of the ABS sensor just inside the inside wing. If you set your multimeter to Milliamps scale you should see a deflection of the meter as the wheel spins, if no delflection then that should be the dead sensor. I bought my cheapo multimeter for a tenner!! from the local motor accessory shop.
For some reason I have only ever replaced front nearside sensors?

Obtaining one from a scrapyard is pointless as they are almost 50pounds and the secondhand sensor will have suffered a similar life to your sensor.
Purchasing one from my local (now defunct dealer) was 120pounds?, plus you need a mounting block 10pounds?(dealer called it a conversion kit) which usually corrodes solid.
Once you locate the faulty sensor be prepared to work on rusty stuck, siezed bolts on the brake caliper. Use WD40 and alow to soak, but be patient when undoing bolts as you will end up rounding of the bolts or shearing them off.

My vehicle's ABS system is now working perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the info i will check all the sensors today just in case it is one of the rear sensors where are the plugs that connect to the loom under the back seat or behind the carpet in boot maybe this one is the saloon model if i find the fault i will let you know later cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
just to keep you informed checked all sensors front o/s looks like the culprit on a test meter av scale showing very low pulses upon spinning wheel take probes out of abs plug swap them over no pulse at all but there is pulses on all other three both ways will get another tommorow going to try scrappy first as they are very easy to take off at the front but the rear ones would smash getting them out so rear sensors would have to bought new let you all know tommorow
by the way the rear plugs on saloon model are in boot compartment behind the carpet thanks for all your help
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hi thanks for all your help problem sorted went to scrappy today bought another wheel sensor £10 fitted it went on 5 mile drive turned off when i started it again light out yipee just been on dirt track emergency stop and abs kicked in so cheap fix o/s front sensor was faulty thanks for all your help
 
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