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Discussion Starter #1
Hi just joined the forum it looks really motivational and informative. I’ve just changed the gearbox on my 53 plate 160 tf without draining the cooling system but I’ve noticed the car doesn’t get up to normal temperature in cold weather and the heater is running only lukewarm. It’s been like that since I’ve bought so any ideas how to attack this issue would be much appreciated.

james
 

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Yep, this forum has always served to be helpful to me. :)
In most F/TFs the needle stays a little below 'normal mark. The gauges are notoriously accurate / oil temp probably tells more...
Imo it sounds like you'd benefit from the usual 3-point bleed process focusing on the front two points in particular. I presume you've been jacking the back up high - which is a really good way to dislodge any trapped air pockets prior to a coolant bleed. The TF coolant Gods are smiling upon you :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There’s one point on the rad at the front and one on the pipe above the gearbox but I do not know where the other one is ? Thanks for the reply
 

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The other's behind the black plastic cover in the front under-bonnet area, ~1/3 of the way in from the right as you look from the front (if I remember correctly).
It's the heater matrix bleed point and has a brake-bleed-nipple type of connector that you loosen when hot/pressurised to allow air /water out then close up when there's no more air bubbles or spits.
(Try to get a plastic tube over the bleed nipple otherwise - as I found - :-( coolant runs down the inside, onto the matrix gets hot and smells...)
I'd personally bleed it after the rad and before the rear pipe (to any chase air bubbles upwards...)
 

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It could be a failed thermostat. They are designed to fail open, resulting in long warm up and the engine tending to run cold. However, a bit of a job to replace so worth trying the bleeding first.
 

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mg_tf
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Did it get warm before you changed the gearbox or is this car unknown to you before hand? Being a 53 plate car it's likely that it was fitted with a PRT thermostat with the original stat housing filled with a blanking ring, it's not uncommon to find some thinking the thermostat is missing and installing a conventional one in so the car ends up with two thermostats.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the replies. I bled the radiator and matrix today very little air in there. Was a good excuse for a test drive. In the summer the temp gauge sits at normal but today it only rose to just over 1/4 and it took a long time getting. The heater was blowing lukewarm there so I’m suspecting the stat?. The question is will the car be fitted with a PRT stat? and if so where is it and what is it like to change ?.
Thanks for all the support so far

James
 

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Hello James,
I’d be surprised if your 53 reg doesn’t have a PRT - my 03 135 does. Why not talk to the likes of Rimmers etc and see what you come up with?
Kind regards,
Austin.
 

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Thanks for all the replies. I bled the radiator and matrix today very little air in there. Was a good excuse for a test drive. In the summer the temp gauge sits at normal but today it only rose to just over 1/4 and it took a long time getting. The heater was blowing lukewarm there so I’m suspecting the stat?. The question is will the car be fitted with a PRT stat? and if so where is it and what is it like to change ?.
Thanks for all the support so far

James


Hi James, as stated previously, your TF is likely to have the PRT. It is located just before the hose meets the underfloor steel pipes that run to the front of the vehicle. It is easily accessed from under the vehicle.

Regards

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I recognize the plastic unit by the front of the rear subframe I’ve ordered a replacement and will see if I can change it on Sunday. Will let you know how I get on

many thanks

James
 

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Perhaps one point which should have been covered James, was to assess the actual running temperature as opposed to the gauge indicated temperature. It could be that the operating temperature is actually fine, but the gauge sender unit may be playing up, and giving a false value to the gauge.
Apologies for the late afterthought, but....
Lets’s hope the now purchased thermostat is the offending party.
Kind regards,
Austin.
 

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mg_tf
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Perhaps one point which should have been covered James, was to assess the actual running temperature as opposed to the gauge indicated temperature. It could be that the operating temperature is actually fine, but the gauge sender unit may be playing up, and giving a false value to the gauge.
I did wonder that but it seems in the first post in the thread that the heater isn't that hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi all I’ve changed the stat, bled the system. The car definitely warms up quicker but sits at the same temperature so it’s a part win part lose I guess. Will see how the heater goes when this wet weather shifts. Thanks for all you input people
 

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Hi Austin
The needle sits between 1/4 and 1/2 way up the gauge if that make sense ?. I think I’ll leave it alone for now
 

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I go on o’clocks James.
My 2003 135 has always sat at 8 o’clock on the gauge even when the outside temperatures reached 30 degrees in the summer. As I understand it, these gauges are notoriously inaccurate/badly calibrated, and may not/unlikely to be a true indication of the actual running temperature. In other words, don’t necessarily expect the gauge of a perfectly serviceable, properly running coolant system to have a needle sitting at 9 o’clock.
If this were mine, I would be wanting to have it plugged in and road tested, so that you can accurately assess the running temperature and any variations from the norm.
Kind regards,
Austin.
 

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I gave up on the car temp gauge and fitted a digital gauge. I fitted a tee in the coolant pipe at the radiator and now get a true indicator of coolant temp. Cost less than £10 all in.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the input the digital gauge sounds interesting and might be an idea if I get the time. I took the car for a run today and the heater used to keep my legs warm with the roof down but it doesn’t seem to get as hot as it used to but it’s totally adequate if the hood is up. I noticed the oil temperature is reading around 70 degrees. I’ve never had a car with an oil temp gauge so not sure if this is normal or not ?
 

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I would add that tbe gauge in our cars is probably not a precision instrument. Oil temps of 80 to 100c would be normal.
 
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