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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all - I'm fitting a subwoofer to my Mk2 45, and I need a reasonable-current 12v supply for it. Where can I find one inside the car, or what is the easiest route for getting out of the cabin and into the engine bay for the battery?
 

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Stand at the front of the car with the bonnet up and there's a fuse box in the top right hand corner of the engine bay, unbolt it and there will be a hole underneath it where you can push a wire through, it's a bit awkward but it should eventually come out inside the car somewhere behind the glove box.
I think I pushed about 4 metres worth of cable through before it finally found it's way inside.
 

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power feed

Stand at the front of the car with the bonnet up and there's a fuse box in the top right hand corner of the engine bay, unbolt it and there will be a hole underneath it where you can push a wire through, it's a bit awkward but it should eventually come out inside the car somewhere behind the glove box.
I think I pushed about 4 metres worth of cable through before it finally found it's way inside.
if you have got just a hole in the bulkhead your rubber grommet is missing.
there should be a large grommet sealing the hole and you will need to pierce it to feed the power cable from battery. i use a length of plastic coated fence wire with the end bent back 180 degrees, use a piece around 18 inches long. this will be stiff enough to feed in and down to come out by passenger footwell, you can take of glove box if you like but i have done it many times with glove box in place. the other end of the fence wire needs the power cable fixed to it, either use duck tape or i bend the wire over power cable and the pull through, takes a couple of mins.
pull up sill trims and carpet to feed cable through into boot area, you can also take the remote power feed through the same route but i feed the sound leads down opposite side of car to avoid any interference.
nearly forgot to say about sealing the entry point of the power cable in bulkhead to prevent water tracking into cabin, i use some windscreen type bonding around power cable where it passes through grommet.
cheers Bren
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks - I was going to seal it with some dum-dum tape I've got access to at work, that we regularly use for sealing prototype bulkheads. I think I saw the big grommet you were talking about when I had a look yesterday, but I couldn't see the back of it behind the HVAC unit. I'll poke a wire through & see where it goes.

Would you wire direct to the battery (I've got an in-line fuse), or would you go to one of the bigger bolt-in fuses in the box instead? The cable has a ring that should fit on either. I'm thinking fuse box, just for neatness.
 

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straight from the battery for ease - and to make sure you don't accidentally connect to the wrong side of the fuse, and wonder why it keeps blowing (I've seen that a few times, lol)

Fit the fuse, ideally, within 6" of the battery
 

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battery connection

as Dan said direct to battery, if you are using and amp power connection the fuse should be correct distance from battery but if you are making your own lead up keep the distance from battery connection as staed above.
 

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Behind the fuse box for me, I ran 2 x 8 awg for mine as it's easy'er than doing 4 awg. Only got one amp, the new JBL GTO 3EZ and that needs 75amp max.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, I've pushed about 12 feet of cable through, and I can't see it anywhere. All I've managed to achieve is breaking a clip off the main 12v lead to the fusebox, and my Autoleads steering wheel interface has stopped working (although that was when I plugged the sub-out leads into the head unit, and dislodged the remote cable).

Is there a particular direction I need to force the power cable to go? I've tried inboard, outboard, up and down, and I can't get any of the cable to pop out around the HVAC - I've got the glovebox out.

Are you sure there isn't a hefty +ve I can connect to within the car somewhere?
 

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the only cable in the entire car that would be suitable - goes from the battery to the starter. All of about a foot of cable.


Most likely getting stuck behind some insulation/etc. Best method is use a long screwdriver, tape the cable to the end of the screwdriver, and poke it through until you can feel the end of it
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I can't get my hands up behind the HVAC to find the grommet, so pushing it through with a screwdriver wouldn't help in this case (although I've done it myself in other situations, so it's not a bad idea as such). And the only other pass-through I can see is the AC drain pipe or the rear washer pipe. I'll try shoving the wire through again when I've got more time.
 

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I had the same problem but it did eventually come through, try having someone else push the cable through while you keep an eye under the dashboard and wait until you see any movement.
 
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