You'll struggle with an MG6 engine.

 

get a t series. less of a ballache

 

I was thinking about just a 75/zt engine. but there was 1 on the bay which gave me the idea.

even so. what have i missed?

gearbox + starter motors et al

£300​

 

no t series for me. i want to keep my car light footed.. but tempted. just gonna fire an email to aa motorsports.

 

arrrgh. now ive just found a donor car for a t series..


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-ROVE...per-Track-Car-/120813854381?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item1c21111ead#ht_581wt_1142

well i dont want to rip apart a coupe.

 

Is the aim more power, or specifically turbo power ?

Do you want to do something different, or the tried & tested (so frequently bodged up) route ?

If all the later, then get this and destroy it, afterall it will have all you need for a T conversion and a 220/420/620/820 has already died for it:

arrrgh. now ive just found a donor car for a t series..


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-ROVE...per-Track-Car-/120813854381?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item1c21111ead#ht_581wt_1142

well i dont want to rip apart a coupe.

Or if you've got big pennies go to Reyland and get them to fit a VAG turbo, £6k+

 

Have a look at the pics I posted as I have been talking to the seller. The whole intake is fly by wire the engine is out of a NCAP crash test car. Dont know about ignition options either as it is all different as far as I have been told. Some may be usable if you use zt inlet system and exhaust manifold and mems 3 but without serious work on electrics etc dont think it as easy as it may seem at 1st glance. That said £950 for a 4000 mile engine is a steal. I am sure you will get plenty of input on this one from others.

 

oh well a 75lump it will be. or 2.0.... dependant on what aa say.

 

I'm not sure if the 200 ECU can be remapped by ZandF. Thought it was only MEMS3?

You'd need PG1 gearbox, flywheel, driveshafts. If you get a donor car it should come with a standard intercooler that will be more than adequate for the job.

 

For the same sort of performance, drop in a vvc engine from a Vi or VVC coupe or similar.

Cheers
Dave

 

The performance from a VVC is nowhere near the same as the 1.8T. A lot cheaper to do the VVC though!

EDIT: You could think outside the box and stick in the 2.5 V6.

 

VVC's good for 190bhp with a bit of modding, and no turbo lag, that'd do for me.

 

Hey Rudder. you gve me the idea in the first place. hows it going with yours?

 

Hopefully things will start moving this weekend. I'm waiting until everythings in and working before counting my chickens.

 

My budget would probably be about 3k.

its the turbo power i'm after but also the torque over the vvc. i don't want a t series because i like the lightness of my old 200. also i think the 1.8 will actually be less work than at T series, its the ecu problem thats been the reason that they never really got done. ZandF have sorted it out now and its already got g max suspension so i don't want to have to fork out for more suspension.

and i think the 1.8 will be slightly better for insurance. i'm declaring it properly.

 

start with a ZT 1.8 engine, or a ZR120 or TF engine, or a vvc engine. Then you need ZT 1.8 rods (1mm shorter i.e. vvc mexico spec) and tap the block for the turbo oil return. 1.8T and 160vvc pistons are the same. Over 180ish you will need forgies and better liners. You will also need 1.8T ancilliaries. I would be hesitant to start with a ZT 1.8T as it could have had a hammering with the iffy thermostat position and large bulk to drag around. Either way its all swappable, all you really need is 1.8T rods and ancillaries. Instead of using 1.8T (mexico vvc) rods you could lower compression on a nasp 1.8 or vvc from 10.5:1 to 9.5:1 by excavating 5cc out each head chamber and/or using a shim. standard 1.8t is I think 9.2:1
for a great solution get any old k and add some top notch liners and forgies.

remap by Zand F

I reckon even a 1.8VVC Turbo would be as easy or even easier than a T series.

 

start with a ZT 1.8 engine, or a ZR120 or TF engine, or a vvc engine. Then you need ZT 1.8 rods (1mm shorter i.e. vvc mexico spec) and tap the block for the turbo oil return. 1.8T and 160vvc pistons are the same. Over 180ish you will need forgies and better liners. You will also need 1.8T ancilliaries. I would be hesitant to start with a ZT 1.8T as it could have had a hammering with the iffy thermostat position and large bulk to drag around. Either way its all swappable, all you really need is 1.8T rods and ancillaries. Instead of using 1.8T (mexico vvc) rods you could lower compression on a nasp 1.8 or vvc from 10.5:1 to 9.5:1 by excavating 5cc out each head chamber and/or using a shim. standard 1.8t is I think 9.2:1
for a great solution get any old k and add some top notch liners and forgies.

remap by Zand F

I reckon even a 1.8VVC Turbo would be as easy or even easier than a T series.

everyone is different and this is just my opinion but i wouldnt do the above at all, too much grief and overcomplicated and wont be good for over 200bhp. where as for £1500 i would

Buy a 1.8T engine - £600
Buy an emerald ecu - £600
Map it and have 220bhp
find an intercooler £50
use zt / 75 downpipe and weld to existing exhaust

For 3k and a k series i would, borrow a few grand more

Buy a 1.8T engine - £600
Buy forged crank £1500
Buy Forged pistons - £550
Buy Forged rods - £ 550
Buy turbo GT2860RS £800
Freelander Flywheel £25
Rover 220 Turbo Clutch 228mm £350
Custom exhaust to suit turbo £650
Custom Intercooler £350
Custom Rad £300

250bhp all day long with +250lbft torque

To get a bit more i would

VVC Head - £100
Port Polish - £450
Bigger Valves (for a giggle) - £1000
Piper 270H cams to suit head- £400
EVO4 Block scholar 1.9 - £850 irrc

This will see above 300bhp but you will start to see problems with the liner wall and with heat

Or forget the above and buy a T series, much simpler, cheaper, its been done lots before (only a few proper 300bhp k series in existance, one in a mini, one in a metro, one in an elise, one in poland in a metro)

VVC turbo would be a good idea due to the infinite cam timing, but the mapping would be a while longer and rev limit of 7500

 

hello djwilma, so you'd do none of the above but actually do the same but add emerald and 220bhp?

iirc ZandF advice is that much over 180bhp you start to see standard pistons going tits up and liners splitting.
600 quid for an emerald would go a long way towards uprated liners and forgies. iirc DTA management are cheaper and would probably give better tech support but thats certainly no criticism of Emerald whatsoever!

ZT (bulky) 1.8T engines get a hammering at warm up from cold, like freelanders (bulky) and TF 1.8's (long coolant hoses), so you could be buying an engine with liner no.1 hammered into block or at least loose (quite common on all K 1.8's due to more heat, faster warm up and the literally 'shocking' cooling system/thermostat layout)
i did say start with a 1.8T to make things easier but buy with caution. if the block is fubar any old block would do just swap over the rods, liners and pistons. Any 1.8 build I would start from scratch setting/resealing liners and setting the levels with machining to liner pockets if required and decking block to suit. ONLY difference from 160vvc engine is rod length and oil return drilling, the block even has a flat ready to drill and tap. the 1mm shorter rod is a bodge by mgr really, dished pistons and excavating material out the head should be a better solution to lower compression yet still minimise the squish band, especially if you want to run higher boost yet maintain a reasonable compression ratio for low down off boost driveability.

 

it would be interesting to see some compression figures for different forgies on different rods with different heads! Also to see which gave the smallest squish band too. i.e the thinnest piston crown, or better put the shortest distance from centre of small end to piston crown.

 

i know of 3 1.8T engines all daily drivers all getting driven properly with 220bhp and no problems. The key is a good intercooler / charger cooler and an oil cooler.

The pistons and liners are the weak points agreed......but forging is more than the emerald as i dont see the point in just putting pistons on a stock rod, let alone the crank. So for £1500 and 220bhp i'd go that way

If i were to be starting building a big power turbo k series again, it wouldnt be either the 1.4 or the 1.8 but a 1.6.

but it wouldnt be in an MGR car

the 1.8 rod ratio is about as low i would want to go, any shorter and the piston will be out the liner in no time