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1.6 K Turbo?

2.1K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  GucciZS  
#1 ·
Hello all,

I have been doing some research on different threads google has popped up for me etc and just want to get things straight in my mind.

Basically I have a 1.6 k series n/a completely standard atm in my mk2 ZS, I am looking to turbo it (not for power for once just want the noise)

So am I correct in what I've read that the 1.8 k series turbo found in the 75/ZT parts will bolt straight on and as long as I only run it at no more than 4psi it wont hurt nothing.

I need:

oil filter housing
manifold
turbo (obviously)
radiator
intercooler (off the derv)
and to manufacture a water feed/return

I've also been told that it may be a good idea to run it with a boost cut chip so I dont kill the turbo

I understand from what I've read that I don't need a dump valve? would it be possible to run it with an external wastergate? (want the chatter! lol)
 
#5 · (Edited)
The parts list is basically there and can all be taken off a ZT. You can get the mems3 (if you are running it) re mapped by Z&F or use the ZT one to get it running then remap it if needed. You will need to decompress the engine as it runs about 2 PSI less than a NA engine (the rods on the turbo 1.8 are 2mm shorter). The standard turbo runs an internal wastegate which could be locked and then use an inline Dump valve/wastgate if you want the woosh factor. The downpipe from the ZT turbo. You can use 160 injectors or Turbo, but the turbo injectors mount slightly differently on the clips so a complete intake is probably best or the standard alloy intake with the 160 injectors. NOT sure about the pick up sensor on the flywheel as the turbo runs a dual masss flywheel and I dont know if the timing/teeth etc are the same and if the mems would need tweaking to match ( I have a spare dual massflywheel/clutch/cover plate). The standard radiator with a water pick up placed in the system to feed the turbo or use the Turbo unit and fan unit and the cam carrier would need drilling and spacing by 10mm for the retun oil pipe. The ZT intercooler will fit and mounts on the radiator. The other thing you nee is shorter rods (expensive) or a thicker shim about 1.5-2mm to replace the head saver on the MLS gasket to get the CR down around 8.5-1.
It can be done for around a grand with a little ducking and diving and selling off the parts you are not using anymore. If you already have the car and engine a lot less.
I have most of the parts spare as have been collecting parts for a while for my 2 builds.
There are a fair few people that have done it 1.4/1.6/1.8 standard and VVC and a wealth of information they have between them.
That is the parts for the basic build but you can take it as far as you want it depends on your budget.

Good luck with it, nice to hear of another possible turbo build and a 1.6
:)
 
#6 ·
Wow mate, you have a lot of knowledge on this, it's much appreciated and I bow to thee! I will keep you posted on the built when I get started, going to continue researching a little bit more and then when I have collected all the bits I need I'll crack on :)
 
#7 ·
I have all of the parts needed spare, bar the intercooler and turbo downpipe as I only have one each of those I am using them. I also have 7 very good 1.8 turbo pistons and rods. The pistons are the same size as the 1.6 but not sure how the rods will work out as the 1.4/1.6 crank is different to the 1.8 so not sure what cc or CR you would have but suspect it may do. The treu Gurus's are people like djwillma, roverdose etc I am very much a learner compared to those guys.
 
#8 ·
OK I'll let you know on those bits, my dad has quite a lot of connections in the motor trade so I'm in discussion with him about it at the mo, anything I might not be able to get tho I'll deffo be in touch

One thing I did note from when I was looking this conversion up was a chap on this forum (can't remember his user name) just bolted the bits on supposidly and ran it like it was but surely it cannot be that easy... I'm not an expert by far but I know n/a engines run different compression and timings etc I did have a 1.3 starlet turbo (very fun) so I do have a little knowledge of a petrol turbo

Just want a better noise, been banned before so not into kaining it round anymore but still like to listen to her pop and spool etc hense this conversion
 
#9 ·
Nope not that straight forward although it is true that the Inlet/Exhaust manifolds, ECU, turbo, downpipe and any other ZT parts ie pipework Radiator, intercooler, oil filter housing and turbo oil feed etc are indeed more or less bolt on. The oil return pipe is not neither is the decompression of the engine. The oil return pipe needs drilling and bolting or welding in place (as it needs to be spaced about 10mm off the block to fit square if using standard ZT turbo pipes) and the head needs to come off to either fit a shim or turbo pistons and rods. I dont know how well the standard 1.6 pistons and rods will hold out, the weakest point being the pistons. From the threads I have read and the feedback I have had it would seem that 200-220 bhp is the Max on the pistons ( Not that I would push it that far) and the crank and rods seem to be able to go to around 250BHP, but again I would not personally push it that far as I prefer to stay well on the safe side of tolerances.
Speak to Z&F about remapping and confirm what they will map to as I have been told, but not confirmed with them that they will only map to 180 BHP. That said that is a fair bit of power and seems to be well within the capabilities of the internal parts.
Do as much reading and research as you can and take your time as this is only my outlook on it all and there are people with 100 times the knowledge I have on the turbo builds. The higher power is better gained by upgrading the turbo etc but 180bhp I would think is doable on mainly standard ZT parts if well built.
 
#10 ·
Yeah true 180BHP is more than enough for me max anyway buddy. To be honest I don't really want to push passed 150BHP as MG stuck the Ford IB5 gearbox in my car (same as in a Fiesta ST 150BHP) and I had a 58 plate which was completely standard and it killed 2 gearboxes by 37k miles so I don't think the bearings inside are that strong and will probably opt for swapping it out for the PG1 box instead before I bolt the turbo on..