1.4 fantasy rebuild

Klinger will leak like a sieve. Seeing as they are for the T series engine and do not do one for the K series.

That's very dull <img>

So is there any sort of uprated HG for the K-series?

Just use a genuine head gasket, they are as good as it gets.

They have been substantially modified since day one...

and dont forget to change the dowels.

i like the new HG's, steel ones are much easier to fit espcially as they dont need doping. i hate hylomar.

So aside from a brand new HG and replacement cam belt, what is worth changing or improving? Is it worthwhile replacing the water pump and/or cam belt tensioner I've read many mixed posts here. The general consensus for non-Rover engines would always be to replace both when doing a cam belt change. BTW do the valves have replaceable oil seals?

Any other "general" stuff before I go the route of balanced / lightened components?

Belt tensioner replacement is a good idea at belt change time.


For the cost involved, I would also replace the water pump - £20-£25

Leave the valve stem oil seals alone.......you won't enjoy removing/refitting the valve collets - they're tiny!

Definately do the pump and tensioner. Also any other auxillary belts as well (power steering etc).

replace the clips on the bottom of the power sterring reseviour with jubilee clips and change the coolant expansion bottle cap may be other preventative changes.

Cheers for that Stu - that's just reminded me of something that I need to do to Steve's 400 before he has it back next weekend!

LOL, which bit?

Expansion bottle cap?

PAS pipework clips - they're really crap!

Certaily are.

Also hides the leak really well which confuses the hell out of you the first time you come across it. Glad MGR no longer use them.

Excellent stuff, thanks all

BTW, has anyone got any recomendations for places to get cranks and connecting rods balanaced and lightened? Preferably in the South of England.

if i had to remove a 1.4 engine for rebuild from a rover 200/400 I would i ditch it and fit a 1.6. A 1.6 is going to run less on full throttle than a 1.4 to acheive the same result - thefore less stress and all else being equal - should last longer.

Im not saying dont rebuild the 1.4 - just giving an alternative suggestion

oh happy memories, you just reminded me of the summer I spent in greece playing hunt the power sterring fluid leak....

if u have pleanty of money u cud go for port and flowed, cams and at a later date throttle bodies but all in all better to get a 1.8 put in and do it, not really worth it to a 1.4.

Sie

your insurer will have a field day if you change the original car substantially - ie replace a 1.4 with a 1.6.

Although, I drove a 1.4 for a long time until last week when I picked up my 1.6 25, and did not know what I was missing. The 1.6 seems to be a lot livlier.

Major Ingram said:

Leave the valve stem oil seals alone.......you won't enjoy removing/refitting the valve collets - they're tiny!

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i heard it fall, but i dont see where.....

hmm, why do i only have 31????

SFulcher said:

your insurer will have a field day if you change the original car substantially - ie replace a 1.4 with a 1.6.

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My insurance company increased my premium by zero after I told them of the engine swap - as the car the engine came from was a lower insurance group than the car it was going in to.

However this is the exception - but it wouldnt be too difficult to get insurance cover

the way to phrase it is that the current engine has broken - you have a 1.6 in the garage and will be fitting that. If they ask what car it came out of tell them Rover 216.

I found the only power difference between all except the vvc is approximatly zero. This engine is already very well balanced and i wouldnt touch it yet for reliability purposes. A decent ignition system like a D.T.A will transform the car no end for the sake of about a grand. Thats what i find is the let down with these cars. When driving them they are crying out for a good ignition map.